Power To Fuel Pump Check (2001-2004 3.0L V6 Ford Escape)

  • By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
  • Created: 08 September 2025
  • Updated: 08 September 2025
  • Articl Id: 876
Power To Fuel Pump Check (2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 3.0L V6 Ford Escape And Mazda Tribute)

If your fuel pressure gauge is showing 0 PSI, it's natural to assume that the fuel pump is bad. But we still need to make sure the pump is actually getting power from the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay before thinking about replacing it.

On the 2001–2004 3.0L V6 Ford Escape and Mercury Mariner, checking this out is pretty easy, since we can easily check this at the fuel pump inertia switch (which is located in a very accessible spot).

In this tutorial, I'll show you how to check that the fuel pump is getting power (when you crank the engine) at the inertia switch with nothing more than a 12V test light or a multimeter.

With your test result, you'll easily and quickly confirm if the fuel pump fuse, fuel pump relay, and wiring to the fuel pump are all doing their job —and it could be saving you from swapping out a fuel pump that's actually still good.

Contents of this tutorial:

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

  • 3.0L V6 Ford Escape: 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004.
  • 3.0L V6 Mazda Tribute: 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004.

FUEL PUMP DIAGNOSTIC TESTS:

Why You Should Check For Power Before Replacing The Fuel Pump

When you're facing an engine that doesn't start and the fuel pressure gauge is showing 0 PSI, the next step is checking if the fuel pump is even getting power. You don't want to blame the fuel pump before knowing the fuel pump fuse and the fuel pump relay are actually doing their job.

On the Ford Escape and Mercury Mariner, working this out is easier than you might expect. Power going to the fuel pump passes straight through the fuel pump inertia switch —and that switch is sitting in a spot that's easy to access.

If power from the fuel pump fuse or relay isn't making it to the inertia switch, then it's not making it to the fuel pump either. Doing this quick check will give you a clear answer in just a few minutes, and it'll save you from swapping out a fuel pump that might still be perfectly fine.

Before I walk you through the actual step-by-step process, let's go over the few basic tools you'll be needing to get this check done.

What Tools You'll Need

You don't need any expensive diagnostic tools for this test. Just a few basic items and you're ready to go:

  • Test light or digital multimeter —Either one works fine. You'll be using it to check for 12 Volts DC at the inertia switch. Don't have one? Here are the ones I use and recommend:
  • Access to the fuel pump inertia switch —It's located behind the passenger side kick panel (under the glove box).
  • Helper to crank the engine —You'll need someone to turn the key and crank the engine while you check for voltage.

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How To Check That Power Is Reaching The Fuel Pump (Via The Inertia Switch)

Alright, this is what you signed up for:

Checking the PWR IN side: Let's check if the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay are delivering power to the fuel pump inertia switch.

  1. Find the inertia switch: On the 2001-2004 Escape (and Mariner), it's located behind the passenger-side kick panel, right below the glove box. Remove that trim panel to expose the switch and its 2-wire electrical connector.
  2. Unplug the connector: The inertia switch has a 2-wire connector. One is delivering power in (PWR IN) from the fuel pump relay, and the other delivers power out (PWR OUT) to the fuel pump. For now, we're focusing on the PWR IN side.
  3. Crank the engine: Have your helper crank the engine while you check the dark green with yellow stripe (DK GRN/YEL) wire using a test light or a multimeter. The DK GRN/YEL wire is the PWR IN wire.
  4. Watch for 10-12 Volts: You should see battery voltage (or close to it) on that PWR IN wire while the engine is cranking. If battery voltage is present, the fuel pump fuse, fuel pump relay, and wiring up to this point are all doing their job.
  5. If no voltage shows up: The 0 PSI fuel pressure isn't being caused by the fuel pump —this tells you the problem is upstream, like a blown fuel pump fuse, bad fuel pump relay, or maybe the PCM not Grounding the relay.

Checking the PWR OUT side: Just because power is making it in doesn't mean it's making it out. To confirm the inertia switch is actually passing power through, we'll check the PWR OUT wire next.

  1. Reconnect the switch: Plug the 2-wire connector back into the inertia switch.
  2. Probe the PWR OUT wire: Using your red multimeter test lead, back-probe the pink with black stripe (PNK/BLK) wire —this is the PWR OUT wire feeding power to the fuel pump pump.
  3. Ground your black lead: Connect the black lead to a clean, rust-free, paint-free metal spot under the dash.
  4. Crank the engine: Have your helper crank the engine while you watch the multimeter display.
  5. Read the result: If the inertia switch is doing its job, you should see 10-12 Volts on the PWR OUT wire. If so, this confirms the inertia switch is passing power on to the fuel pump.

IMPORTANT: Keep in mind that we're not testing the fuel pump's pressure output —this is just checking that the pump is being powered. It's a crucial step before condemning the pump itself (after checking its pressure output with a fuel pressure test gauge).

More 3.0L V6 Ford Escape Diagnostic Tutorials

You can find a complete list of 3.0L V6 Ford Escape, Mercury Mariner, and Mazda Tribute diagnostic tutorials in this index:

Here's a sample of the diagnostic tutorials you'll find in the index:

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