TEST 2: Verifying The MAF Sensor Is Getting Power
If in TEST 1 your Suzuki Sidekick's MAF sensor did not create an increasing/decreasing voltage signal as you revved the engine, the next step is to make sure that it's getting power.
The wire that delivers power, which is in the form of 12 Volts DC, to the MAF sensor is the blue with black stripe (BLU/BLK) wire of the engine wiring harness MAF sensor connector.
To check for this voltage, we'll do a simple multimeter voltage test. These are the steps:
NOTE: The connector in the illustration above is the connector on the MAF sensor itself and NOT the engine wiring harness MAF connector.
- 1
Disconnect the MAF sensor from its connector.
- 2
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- 3
Turn the key to the ON position but don't crank or start the engine.
- 4
Probe the BLU/BLK wire of the MAF sensor connector with the red multimeter test lead.
The BLU/BLK wire is the wire that connects to MAF sensor pin 3 in the illustration above.
NOTE: Avoid probing the front of the connector. Use a back-probe on the connector or a wire piercing probe on the wire. - 5
Now Ground the black multimeter test lead on the battery's negative (-) post.
- 6
Your multimeter should register 10 to 12 Volts DC.
Let's take a look at what your results mean:
CASE 1: The BLU/BLK wire, of the MAF sensor connector, has 10 to 12 Volts DC. This is the correct test result.
Now that you have confirmed that the MAF sensor is getting power, the next step is to check that it's getting Ground. Go to: TEST 3: Verifying The MAF Is Getting Ground.
CASE 2: The BLU/BLK wire, of the MAF sensor connector, DOES NOT have 10 to 12 Volts DC. This results lets you know that the MAF sensor is not bad, since without these 12 Volts DC, the MAF sensor can not function.
Although it's beyond the scope of this article to troubleshoot the cause of these missing 12 Volts, you have now eliminated the MAF sensor as bad. Resolving the issue that is keeping these 12 Volts from being supplied will solve the MAF sensor issue on your 1.6L Sidekick (or 1.6L Chevrolet Tracker).
TEST 3: Verifying The MAF Sensor Is Getting Ground
Up to this point, your tests have:
- Confirmed a MAF sensor code is lighting up the check engine light (OBD I: 33, or 34; OBD II: P0101, P0102, or P0103).
- Confirmed that the MAF sensor's voltage signal is stuck in one voltage value no matter how much you accelerate the engine (TEST 1).
- Checked the MAF sensor is getting power on the BLU/BLK wire.
For our last test we'll make sure that the black (BLK) wire of the MAF sensor electrical connector is feeding the MAF sensor with Ground.
Testing for Ground is done with another simple multimeter voltage test.
NOTE: The connector in the illustration above is the connector on the MAF sensor itself and NOT the engine wiring harness MAF connector.
These are the steps:
- 1
Disconnect the MAF sensor from its connector.
- 2
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- 3
Turn the key to the ON position but don't crank or start the engine.
- 4
Probe the BLK wire with the black multimeter test lead.
NOTE: Avoid probing the front of the connector. Use a back-probe on the connector or a wire piercing probe on the wire. - 5
Now connect the red multimeter test lead on the battery's positive (+) post.
- 6
Your multimeter shoulde register 10 to 12 Volts DC if Ground is present in the BLK wire.
OK, let's take a look at what your results mean:
CASE 1: The multimeter confirms that the BLK wire is feeding Ground to the MAF sensor. This is the correct test result and confirms that the MAF sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.
Here's why: So far you verified:
- That the MAF sensor is not producing the correct signal voltage values when you accelerate/decelerate the engine (TEST 1).
- That it is being fed with power (TEST 2).
- That the MAF sensor does have a solid path to Ground (TEST 3).
These test results, interpreted together, indicate that the MAF sensor is bad.
CASE 2: The multimeter confirms that the BLK wire IS NOT feeding Ground to the MAF sensor. double check your multimeter connections and repeat the test. If your multimeter results still do not indicate 12 Volts, then the mass air flow (MAF) sensor is not fried and not the cause of the MAF sensor diagnostic trouble code (DTC) issue.
Here's why: Without a good path to Ground, that the PCM provides internally, the MAF sensor will not work. With this test result, you have eliminated the MAF sensor as bad.
More 1.6L Suzuki Tutorials
To see all of the 1.6L Suzuki diagnostic tutorials, check out this index: Suzuki 1.6L Index Of Articles.
Here's a sample of the troubleshooting tutorials you'll find in the index:
- How To Test The Throttle Position Sensor (1996-1998 1.6L Sidekick).
- How To Test The Engine Compression (1.6L Suzuki Sidekick, Geo Tracker).
- 1996-1997 MAF Sensor Wiring Diagram (1.6L Sidekick / Tracker).
- 1996-1997 Fuel Injector Circuit Diagram (1.6L Sidekick / Tracker).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!
