TEST 2: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Has 5 Volts
If you reached this point, then the CMP sensor's voltage signal is not switching between 5 Volts and 0 Volts in TEST 1.
There's a good chance that the sensor is not producing its ON/OFF voltage signal because it isn't getting power from the fuel injection computer.
So in this test section we're going to make sure that the violet with white stripe (VIO/WHT) wire is providing 5 Volts DC to the CMP sensor.
If the VIO/WHT wire is providing 5 Volts to the CMP sensor, then the next test is to make sure that it's getting Ground.
Let's get testing:
- 1
Disconnect the CMP sensor from its connector.
- 2
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- 3
Turn the key on but don't crank or start the engine.
- 4
Connect the red multimeter test lead (using the appropriate tool) to the VIO/WHT wire identified with the number 1 in the photo above.
NOTE: This test is done on the connector that has female terminals. - 5
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the negative (-) battery terminal.
- 6
Your multimeter should read 4.5 to 5 Volts
Let's analyze your test result:
CASE 1: 5 Volts are present in the VIO/WHT wire. This is the correct and expected test result.
The next test is to test for the presence of Ground in the black light blue stripe wire: TEST 3: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Has Ground.
CASE 2: 5 Volts ARE NOT present in the VIO/WHT wire. Without 5 Volts the camshaft position sensor will not produce a CMP voltage signal.
What's usually behind the lack of these 5 Volts is an open-circuit problem in the VIO/WHT wire between the CMP sensor's connector and the fuel injection computer's connector.
Although it's beyond the scope of this tutorial to check for this missing power, your next step is to find out why it's missing and restore it.
TEST 3: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Has Ground
The camshaft position sensor also needs Ground to create its ON/OFF voltage signal. So in this last test section we're gonna' test the black with light blue stripe (BLK/LT BLU) wire to make sure it's delivering Ground to the CMP sensor.
IMPORTANT: The fuel injection computer provides Ground to the CMP sensor. Be careful and don't short the BLK/LT BLU wire to battery power (12 Volts) or you'll fry the fuel injection computer. The multimeter voltage test I'm suggesting below (for testing the presence of Ground in this wire) is a safe and accurate test.
NOTE: Avoid probing the front of the female terminal with your multimeter test lead or you run the risk of damaging the terminal. Use a back-probe on the back of the connector or use a wire-piercing probe on the wire.
These are the test steps:
- 1
Disconnect the CMP sensor from its connector.
- 2
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- 3
Turn the key on but don't crank or start the engine.
- 4
Connect the black multimeter test lead (using the appropriate tool) to the BLK/LT BLU wire identified with the number 2 in the photo above.
NOTE: This test is done on the connector that has female terminals. - 5
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the positive (+) battery terminal.
- 6
Your multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC if the BLK/LT BLU wire is providing Ground.
Let's take a look at what your test results mean:
CASE 1: Ground is present in the BLK/LT BLU wire. This is the correct test result and let's you know that the camshaft position sensor is getting Ground.
The camshaft position sensor is bad and needs to be replaced if:
- The camshaft position sensor's voltage signal is not switching between 0 and 5 Volts (TEST 1).
- 5 Volts DC are present in the VIO/WHT wire (TEST 2).
- Ground is present in the BLK/LT BLU wire.
CASE 2: Ground IS NOT present in the BLK/LT BLU wire. Without Ground, the camshaft position sensor will not produce an ON/OFF voltage signal.
What's usually behind the lack of Ground is an open-circuit problem in the BLK/LT BLU wire between the CMP sensor's connector and the fuel injection computer's connector.
Although it's beyond the scope of this tutorial to check for this missing Ground, your next step is to find out why it's missing and restore it.
More 5.2L, 5.9L Dodge Ram Diagnostic Tutorials
I've written quite a few 5.2L, 5.9L Dodge ‘how to test’ tutorials that may help you troubleshoot the issues on your Dodge van or pick up. You can find them in these two indexes:
Here's a small sample of the articles/tutorials you'll find in these indexes:
- How To Test A No Start Condition (Dodge 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L).
- How To Diagnose Misfire Codes (Dodge 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L).
- How To Test The Fuel Injectors (Dodge 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L).
- How To Test The Ignition Coil -No Start Tests (Chrysler 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L).
- How To Test The MAP Sensor (P0107, P0108) (Dodge 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!