How To Test A No Start Condition (Dodge 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L)

How To Test An Engine No-Start Condition (Dodge 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L)

A lot of different things can cause your Dodge 3.9L, 5.2L, or 5.9L pickup, van, SUV not to start. You might be wondering, “Is it the fuel pump?”, or “Is it the ignition coil?” and the list goes on.

Well, in this article, I'll offer you my take on testing a cranks but does not start condition that has helped me nail them down with a lot of success and I think this diagnostic strategy will help you too.

Besides, knowing where to starting testing, before replacing parts, will save you time and money and in this economy, who needs the frustration of throwing money away.

Difference Between A "No-Start" And A "No-Crank"

This may sound too obvious but just in case it's not clear, a no-crank and a no-start condition are not the same thing. This article only concentrates on testing a no-start condition.

The difference is that in a no-start condition the starter motor in your vehicle does crank the engine but the engine does not start. In a no-crank condition, the starter motor does not turn over the engine when you turn the key to start your vehicle.

If your Dodge pickup (SUV, van) is suffering a no-crank condition and you suspect the starter motor, the following tutorial may be of help:

Engine No-Start Basics

As you're already aware, your Dodge 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L pickup (van, SUV) needs three very important things to start:

  1. Air.
  2. Fuel.
  3. Spark.

When your Dodge vehicle cranks but does not start, it's because one of these three components is missing from the mix. Knowing this is the key to successfully diagnosing the problem. Why?

Well, because now you can do some basic tests to isolate the problem in one of three main areas where the problem could reside in. Let's go into some detail about these three areas:

1.) Ignition System

  • The ignition system, on your Dodge 3.9L, 5.2L, or 5.9L is a distributor type system and is the one responsible for creating and delivering spark. Without spark, the engine will crank but not start.
  • In this type of ignition system, the major components are:
    • The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor, which is located on the transmission bell housing.
    • The camshaft position (CMP) sensor, which is located in the distributor (also known as the distributor pickup coil).
    • Ignition coil, located on the front of the engine (passenger side).
    • The ignition control module function is handled by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer) so there's no ignition module mounted externally.
  • In my experience, the most common component failures, of the ignition system that cause a no-start no-spark condition are:
    • Ignition coil.
    • CKP sensor.
    • CMP sensor.
    • Distributor cap/rotor.
    • Ignition coil high tension wire.
  • All of the above ignition system components can be tested.

2.) Fuel System

  • Without fuel being injected into the engine cylinders, you can spend all day cranking the engine and it's not gonna' start.
  • The fuel system component that causes the majority of no-start no-fuel problems:
    • Fuel pump.
  • Like any other electrical component on your Dodge vehicle, the fuel pump can be tested to make sure it has really fried.

3.) Engine Mechanical System

  • The engine pistons and valves (and all the other related components like: timing chain. Camshaft, etc.) are the ones that get the air into the cylinders to mix with the fuel (and then explode in combustion when the spark hits this mix).
  • Although rare, internal engine mechanical problems can and do cause no-start conditions (especially after severe overheating or running the engine with no oil).
  • Possible internal engine problems are:
    • Blown head gasket.
    • Blown engine.

OK, the list of possible things that can go wrong looks pretty long but it is rare to see (or have) two different components go bad from two separate systems at the same time.

The cool thing is, is that there is a diagnostic strategy that you can use to figure out exactly what's wrong with your particular no-start problem. Let's find out more about it in the next subheading.

NO START 1: Checking For Spark

Before replacing anything, the first thing you should do is check what system is missing what. The first order of business should be testing for spark and fuel.

To be a bit more specific, you should:

  1. Make sure all 6 (3.9L V6) or all 8 cylinders are getting spark with a spark tester.
  2. If spark was present in all of the cylinders, then this result tells you several very important things:
    • The distributor cap, distributor rotor, and the spark plug wires are OK.
    • The ignition coil is OK and functioning correctly.
    • The crankshaft (crank) position sensor is functioning correctly.
    • The Auto Shut Down (ASD) relay, which powers the ignition coil, is good.
    This also means that you don't have to spend any time testing them or any money replacing them.
  3. If after checking for spark and there IS NO spark present in all 6 or 8 cylinders, then the most likely causes are:
    • Bad ignition coil high tension wire (this is the spark plug wire that connects the ignition coil to the distributor cap).
    • Bad distributor cap and/or rotor.
    • Bad ignition coil.
    • Bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor.
    • Bad camshaft position (CMP) sensor.

You're starting point, for your ignition system spark tests, should start with this tutorial:

If the spark plug wires and ignition coil are not firing spark, then your next step is to test the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor and camshaft position (CMP) sensor.

Since the CKP and CMP sensors are at the heart of everything that is involved with starting the vehicle (fuel injection and spark). When either of these sensors has failed you'll see the following specific symptoms:

  • The PCM will not activate the fuel injectors.
  • The PCM will not activate the ASD (Auto Shut Down relay).
  • If the ASD relay does not activate, the ignition coil will not get power.
  • If the ASD relay does not activate, the fuel pump relay will not activate.

CKP SENSOR TESTS: The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor can be accurately test with just a multimeter:

CMP SENSOR TESTS: Here are the CMP sensor tests:

V6 Dodge Ram Pickup:

V8 Dodge Ram Pickup:

V6 Dodge Ram Van:

V6 Dodge Ram Van:



Dodge Vehicles:

  • B1500, B2500, B3500 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L
    • 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998
  • Dakota 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L
    • 1997, 1998, 1999
  • Durango 3.2L, 5.2L, 5.9L
    • 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003

Dodge Vehicles:

  • Ram 1500, 2500, 3500 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L
    • 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003
  • Ram Van 1500, 2500, 3500 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L
    • 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003

Jeep Vehicles:

  • Grand Cherokee 5.2L, 5.9L
    • 1997, 1998