How To Test The Camshaft Position Sensor (1996-1997 5.2L, 5.9L V8 Dodge Ram Van)

Did you know you don't need a scan tool to check the CMP sensor on your 1996–1997 5.2L or 5.9L V8 Dodge Ram van? A regular multimeter's all it takes.

Yep, just three easy multimeter checks and you'll know if the CMP sensor's working or if it's shot. I'll walk you through every step right here.

We'll also cover where to grab a replacement camshaft position sensor without spending a ton.

NOTE: The camshaft position sensor's also called the distributor pickup coil.

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles since they use the exact same camshaft position (CMP) sensor:

• Dodge Ram 1500 Van 5.2L V8: 1996, 1997.
• Dodge Ram 2500 Van 5.2L V8: 1996, 1997.
• Dodge Ram 1500 Van 5.9L V8: 1996, 1997.
• Dodge Ram 2500 Van 5.9L V8: 1996, 1997.
• Dodge Ram 3500 Van 5.9L V8: 1996, 1997.

IGNITION SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS:

• Ignition System Wiring Diagram (1996 5.2L, 5.9L V8 Dodge Ram Van).
• Ignition System Wiring Diagram (1997 5.2L, 5.9L V8 Dodge Ram Van).

OTHER CMP SENSOR TESTS:

• How To Test The Distributor Pickup Coil (1989-1991 5.2L, 5.9L V8 Dodge Ram Van).
• How To Test The Camshaft Position Sensor (1992-1995 5.2L, 5.9L V8 Dodge Ram Van).
• How To Test The Camshaft Position Sensor (1998-2003 5.2L, 5.9L V8 Dodge Ram Van).

Symptoms Of A Bad Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor

You probably already know that an engine won't start without fuel and spark. The fuel injection computer depends on signals from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor and the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor to fire up the injectors and ignition system.

As soon as the engine starts cranking, the computer begins watching the CMP signal. If that signal's missing, it throws a diagnostic trouble code like:

• P0340: No Camshaft Signal At PCM.
• P1391: Intermittent Loss Of CMP Or CKP Signal.

Here are some of the most common symptoms that show up when the distributor pickup coil (CMP sensor) starts to fail:

• Engine cranks but won't start: The starter turns the engine, but the it doesn't fire up.
• Random stalling: The engine might run fine, then cut off out of nowhere —especially when idling or cruising at low speeds.
• Check Engine Light (CEL): A missing or glitchy CMP signal will usually light up the CEL. Codes like P0340 or P1391 point right to this issue.
• Rough idle or misfires: A weak signal throws off fuel and spark timing. You'll feel it as a shaky idle, misfires, or uneven acceleration under load.
• Hard starts (cold or hot): A failing sensor might still send the occasional signal, which lets the engine eventually fire up —but only after a few long cranks.
• Sluggish throttle: A weak or glitchy signal from the CMP sensor messes with acceleration. The engine feels lazy or uneven when you try to pick up speed.

What the CMP Sensor Does

In 1996–1997 V8 Dodge Ram vans, the CMP sensor lives inside the distributor. It used to be called the distributor pickup coil. The name changed, but its job hasn't. It's still key to letting the PCM (your engine computer) handle fuel injection and spark timing.

Here's how it works:

• Sends out the Fuel Sync Signal:
  • While the engine spins, the CMP sensor produces a digital pulse called the fuel sync signal.
  • This pulse tells the PCM which cylinder's in its compression stroke —critical for correct injector timing.
• Teams up with the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP):
  • The CKP sensor —mounted by the flywheel —tracks RPM and crank position.
  • But it doesn't identify which stroke each cylinder's on.
  • The CMP fills in that info so the PCM can sync fuel and spark correctly.
• Controls when fuel injectors fire:
  • With the CMP signal, the PCM knows exactly when to pulse each injector.
  • If that signal's missing, injector timing goes out of sync —or shuts down entirely.
• Backs up spark timing (indirectly):
  • The crank sensor handles spark timing, but the CMP adds cylinder position info to keep everything in line.

Circuit Descriptions Of The Camshaft Position Sensor

The camshaft position sensor is a Hall-Effect type, which means it needs both power and Ground to come alive and send out a signal. That's why you'll see three wires coming out of its connector.

The table below gives you a quick breakdown of what each of those three wires does:

1996-1997 Camshaft Position Sensor Connector
Pin	Wire Color	Description
1	Violet with white stripe (VIO/WHT)	5 Volts DC
2	Black with light blue stripe (BLK/LT BLU)	Sensor Ground
3	Tan with yellow stripe (TAN/YEL)	CMP Signal

Where To Buy The Camshaft Position Sensor

The following links will help you comparison shop for the camshaft position sensor (distributor pickup coil). I think you'll save a few bucks:

TEST 1: Testing The Camshaft Position Signal

When you're testing the CMP sensor, keep in mind that it sends out an ON/OFF voltage signal as the engine spins. When it's ON, the signal reads 5 Volts DC. When it's OFF, it drops to 0 Volts.

The cool part? You can actually catch this ON/OFF switching —going from 5 Volts to 0 Volts —with just a multimeter. And that's exactly how we're gonna test it.

If you don't see that voltage flipping back and forth between 5 Volts and 0 Volts as the engine cranks, then the next move (in TEST 2) is to make sure the sensor's actually getting power.

The wire we need to tap into for the voltage signal check is the tan with yellow stripe (TAN/YEL) wire.

IMPORTANT: The camshaft position sensor has to stay plugged into the engine harness for this test to work. You'll need to back probe the wire or use a piercing probe to read the signal without disconnecting anything. You can see an example of a wire piercing probe (and where to buy it) here: Wire Piercing Probe.

NOTE: Don't have a multimeter or need to upgrade yours? Check out my recommendation: Tekpower TP8268 AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter (at: amazon.com).

Here's how to run the test:

1. 1

   Unplug the ignition coil from its electrical connector. This is an important safety step to keep the engine from starting —don't skip it!
   
   NOTE: Leave the distributor cap alone. It needs to stay on to keep the camshaft position sensor firmly in place.

2. 2

   Attach the black lead from your multimeter to the battery's negative (-) terminal.

3. 3

   Set your multimeter to read DC Volts.

4. 4

   Use the red lead to probe the TAN/YEL (tan with yellow stripe) wire coming from the cam sensor's connector.
   
   NOTE: The sensor needs to stay plugged into the engine wiring harness connector for this to work. You'll need to back probe or use a piercing probe to tap into the signal.

5. 5

   Ask a helper to crank the engine once your meter leads are hooked up.

6. 6

   Watch the multimeter —you should see the voltage bounce between 5 Volts and 0 Volts DC while the engine cranks.

Now, let's break down what your CMP signal test result means:

CASE 1: The voltage signal switches ON and OFF. That's exactly what you want to see.

If you got this result, the CMP sensor is doing its job. It's not the reason your engine won't start.

CASE 2: The multimeter didn't show the ON/OFF switching voltage. That usually means the camshaft position sensor's bad.

Before swapping it out, double-check that it's getting both power and Ground. To do that, head over to: TEST 2: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Has 5 Volts.