How To Test The Ignition Coil Pack (2011-2019 1.6L Ford Fiesta)

The ignition coil pack on your Ford Fiesta is one of the hardest working ignition system components on the engine. It's got to supply spark to all four cylinders no matter the engine speed. We're talking about producing spark thousands of times per minute.

Sooner or later it's gonna fail. Thankfully, testing it to see if good or bad isn't difficult. In this tutorial, I'll show you a simple testing method that'll help you diagnose it without expensive testing equipment.

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

• 1.6L Ford Fiesta: 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

WIRING DIAGRAM: The following diagram may come in handy:

• Ignition System Wiring Diagram (2011-2013 1.6L Ford Fiesta)

Symptoms Of A Bad Ignition Coil Pack

When the ignition coil pack or the spark plug wires are bad, your Ford Fiesta vehicle will display one or more of the following symptoms:

1. The engine idles rough and wants to stall.
2. When you accelerate the car, it has no power.
3. Really bad gas mileage.
4. The vehicle will not start.
5. The car will not run on all cylinders.
6. Misfire codes that are lighting up the check engine light on your instrument cluster.
   • P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304.
7. Rotten egg smell coming out of the tail-pipe.

What Tools Do I Need To Test The Ignition Coil?

To successfully use this information to diagnose and troubleshoot your Ford Fiesta's ignition coil pack, you'll need a few specific tools. Don't worry, none of this stuff is expensive, here's the list:

1. An LED light.
   • To see what this tool looks like, click here: Abe's LED Light (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
2. An HEI spark tester
   • This tool is a must have (don't have an HEI spark tester? Need to buy one? You can buy it here: OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester).
3. Battery jump start cables.
4. Someone to help you crank the engine.

To troubleshoot and diagnose a bad coil pack on your Ford (or Mazda) car, an HEI spark tester is a must have tool. Using the wrong tool or method will have you chasing a wrong diagnostic test conclusion and effectively wasting your time and money.

Circuit Descriptions Of The Ford Coil Pack Connector

The Ford coil pack connector has three wires coming out of it. No matter what the style of coil pack or the style of connector that connects to it, the circuit descriptions are the same.

Terminal	Wire	Description
1	Blue with brown stripe (BLU/BRN)	Ignition Coil Activation Signal -Cylinders 2 And 3
2	White with brown stripe (WHT/BRN)	12 Volts
3	Yellow with grey stripe (YEL/GRY)	Ignition Coil Activation Signal -Cylinders 1 And 4

Basic Operating Theory Of The Ford Coil Pack

Your Ford Fiesta's fuel injection computer is the one that controls the activation of the ignition coil. In a nutshell, here's what happens when you turn the key to crank and start the car:

1. The engine starts to crank, inducing the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor to start producing its CKP signal.
2. The CKP signal, upon being received by the PCM along with other necessary sensor information, starts to do its little song and dance and sends back two different ignition coil activation signals (thru' separate wires) to the ignition coil pack.
   • The coil pack is made up of two separate ignition coils. Each ignition coil within the coil pack has two towers that feed spark to two cylinders at the same time.
   • The ignition coil activation signal is the computer switching the Primary Current (12 Volts), flowing thru' each ignition coil within the coil pack, ON and OFF by interrupting their Ground path. It's this signal that makes the ignition coils fire spark.
   • Each ignition coil (that make up the coil pack) gets its own activation signal from the fuel injection computer.
3. As each individual ignition coil, within the ignition coil pack, gets its activation signal, it fires spark to two 'paired cylinders' at the exact same time (in what's known as the Waste Spark method).
   • One ignition coil within the coil pack fires spark to cylinders 1 and 4.
   • The other ignition coil that makes up the other part of the coil pack fires cylinders 2 and 3.

You don't need to memorize any of this, but the one thing you do need to keep in mind is that two cylinders (1 and 4, 2 and 3) get spark at exact same time. You're gonna see the phrases 'paired cylinders' and 'non-paired cylinders' quite a bit in this tutorial.

Remember, the term 'paired cylinders' simply refers to the fact that cylinders 1 and 4 and cylinders 2 and 3 get spark at the same time.

Knowing what 'paired cylinder' means will help you successfully diagnose the ignition coil pack (not to mention it'll help you make sense of the tests in this tutorial).

Precautions, Do's And Don'ts

Most of the testing that you'll be doing is with the engine cranking, so take all necessary safety precautions to keep your fingers, hands and entire self safe. Here are a few other tips and suggestions:

1. Do not use a regular spark plug instead of a spark tester to test for spark.
2. Do not remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug or the ignition coil while the engine is cranking to test for spark.
3. Start your diagnostic from TEST 1, do not skip around from test to test unless instructed to do so by the TEST you are currently on.
4. Do not use a test light where an LED light is called for.
5. Once again, use the recommended/indicated tools for all of your tests.

TEST 1: Testing For Spark At The Spark Plug Wire

I'm gonna recommend that you test all four spark plug wires for spark to ensure the most accurate test result.

Also, it's critical that you use a spark tester -any spark tester will do. The one I own and use is the HEI spark tester because this bad boy is accurate and you don't need to adjust it or interpret the color of the spark. You can see and buy here: OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester (at: amazon.com)

These are the test steps:

1. 1

   Remove the spark plug wire (high tension cable) from the spark plug.

2. 2

   Attach the a spark tester to high tension wire.

3. 3

   Connect the spark tester to the battery negative (-) terminal with a battery jump start cable.

4. 4

   Have your helper crank the vehicle as you stand at a safe distance from the engine.
   
   The engine may or may not start, either way be careful.

5. 5

   As the vehicle cranks or starts, observe the spark tester.

6. 6

   You're gonna' get one of two results: spark or NO spark.

7. 7

   Now repeat this test on the other spark plug wires.

IMPORTANT: Read the following options carefully to interpret your NO SPARK result or results. Remember that some cylinders get spark from the same ignition coil within the coil pack (since the coil pack is made up of two individual ignition coils that have two towers each). So if you get a NO SPARK result from two spark plug wires, you need to verify if they're from paired cylinders 1 and 4 or paired cylinders 2 and 3 or from unpaired cylinders (example of unpaired cylinders would be: cylinders 1 and 3, or 2 and 4, or 1 and 2).

CASE 1: You got spark from all four spark plug wires. This indicates that the ignition coils and spark plug wires are OK. The cause of your misfire condition is not due to a bad ignition coil. Go to: Other Things That Can Cause A Misfire to see further tips and suggestions.

CASE 2: You got NO spark from only one spark plug wire. The next step is to check for spark directly on the coil pack tower that feeds that spark plug wire with spark. Go to: TEST 2: Testing For Spark At The Ignition Coil Pack.

CASE 3: You got NO spark from two spark plug wires that connect to spark plugs for paired cylinders 1 and 4 or paired cylinders 2 and 3. The next step is check for spark directly on both towers (one at a time of course).

For this test go to: TEST 3: Testing For Spark At The Ignition Coil Pack.

CASE 4: You got NO spark from two spark plug wires that DO NOT connect to paired cylinders. The next step is to test each coil pack tower directly for spark one at a time.

For this test go to: TEST 2: Testing For Spark At The Ignition Coil Pack.

CASE 5: You got NO spark from none of the spark plug wires. This usually indicates that power is missing from the power circuit or that the crankshaft position sensor is bad.

To find out, go to: TEST 4: Testing The Power (12 Volts) Circuit.