Diagnosing a blown head gasket in your V8 equipped Ford E-Series van (which, by the way, has two head gaskets) involves a choice of four tests, with one or two possibly needed.
The good news is that the first two tests I'm gonna show you don't require any tools. For the engine compression test and block test, however, you'll need a compression tester and a combustion leak detector, respectively.
In this tutorial, I'll detail the steps for all four tests. While I really hope your Ford van hasn't suffered a head gasket failure, if there's a chance it has, these tests will help you find out.
Contents of this tutorial:
- Symptoms Of A Blown Head Gasket.
- TEST 1: Oil The Color Of Coffee With Too Much Creamer.
- TEST 2: Exhaust Gases Shooting Out Of The Radiator.
- TEST 3: Engine Compression Test.
- TEST 4: Using A Chemical Block Tester (Combustion Leak Tester).
- Should I Replace Both Head Gaskets?
- More 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E150, E250 And E350 Tutorials.
APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:
- 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E150: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.
- 4.6L V8 Ford E250: 1997, 1998, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.
- 5.4L V8 Ford E250: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.
- 5.4L V8 Ford E350: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.
F-Series Pickups: You can find the thermostat test for 4.6L and 5.4L V8 F-Series pickups here:
- How To Test The Thermostat (1997-2010 4.6L, 5.4L Ford F150, F250, F350) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
Crown Vic And Grand Marquis: You can find the thermostat test for 4.6L Crown Vic and Grand Marquis here:
NOTE: This tutorial applies to several other Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln vehicles equipped with a 4.6L or 5.4L V8 engine. You can see the application list in the 'Applies To' box on the left if you're using a desktop or at the bottom of this page if you're using a hand-held mobile device.
Symptoms Of A Blown Head Gasket
When one or both head gaskets fail, the engine will suffer one of three problems:
- Engine No-Start: The engine cranks but doesn't start.
- Engine Starts But Overheats: The engine starts but then overheats in no time for no good reason.
- Cylinder Misfire: The engine starts but runs with a misfire.
If the engine in your van starts and runs and one or both head gaskets are blown, you'll see one or more of the following symptoms:
- Overheating: One of the most noticeable symptoms is engine overheating. A blown head gasket can allow coolant to leak into the combustion chambers or oil passages, leading to inadequate cooling of the engine.
- White Smoke from the Exhaust: If coolant leaks into the combustion chambers, it can be burned along with the fuel, producing white smoke from the exhaust. This is often accompanied by a sweet smell.
- Milky Oil: Coolant mixing with engine oil can result in a milky or frothy appearance on the oil dipstick or under the oil filler cap. This indicates contamination and a potential head gasket leak.
- Loss of Coolant: If there's a head gasket leak, you may notice a gradual decrease in coolant levels without any apparent external leaks. Keep an eye on the coolant reservoir and radiator.
- Poor Engine Performance: A blown head gasket can cause the engine to run poorly, with symptoms such as rough idling, hesitation, or a noticeable decrease in power and acceleration.
- External Coolant Leaks: In some cases, coolant may leak externally from the engine, typically near the head gasket area. Look for signs of coolant puddles or stains under the vehicle.
- Bubbles in the Radiator or Overflow Tank: When the engine is running, air bubbles may be visible in the radiator or overflow tank if there's combustion gas leaking into the cooling system through a blown head gasket.
- Excessive Pressure in Cooling System: A blown head gasket can cause an increase in pressure within the cooling system, leading to bulging hoses, coolant overflow, or even radiator or hose ruptures.
- Compression Loss: A compression test can reveal low compression in one or more cylinders, indicating a potential head gasket failure.
- Check Engine Light: Depending on the severity of the issue, the engine's computer may detect abnormalities related to engine performance or emissions, triggering the check engine light.
TEST 1: Oil The Color Of Coffee With Too Much Creamer
In every shop I've worked in, checking the color of the engine oil is the first test the tech does, and it was one of the very first ones I learned when I started out in auto repair.
All it involves is yanking the engine oil dipstick out and visually checking the oil sticking to it. The focus is on its color and thickness.
If the oil looks way too thick and has the color of 'coffee with too much creamer,' then, unfortunately, you're looking at a blown head gasket. If the oil looks normal, though, we'll head over to TEST 2.
If the color of the oil is normal, we'll move on to TEST 2.
These are the steps:
- 1
Open the hood.
- 2
Pull out the engine's oil dipstick.
- 3
Check the color of the oil and how thick it is.
- 4
You'll see one of two things:
1.) The oil on the dipstick is a creamy, off-white color and is thick as syrup.
2.) The oil is its normal color and viscosity.
Let's see what your test result means:
CASE 1: The engine oil looks like 'coffee with too much creamer'. This confirms that one or more of the engine's head gaskets are blown.
CASE 2: The color of the engine oil is normal. This is the correct and expected test result.
The next step is to check to see if compression/exhaust gases are leaking into the cooling system. Go to: TEST 2: Exhaust Gases Shooting Out Of The Radiator.
TEST 2: Exhaust Gases Shooting Out Of The Radiator
Another tell-tale sign of a blown head gasket is when you get combustion gases or coolant pressures escaping into the engine's cooling system.
When this happens, a whole lot of pressure starts building up in the cooling system (which the radiator is a part of), whether the engine's just trying to start or already running.
This can lead to stuff like coolant leaks, hoses looking like they're about to pop, or even the radiator tanks busting cracks. The way to check for this issue is to remove the cap of the expansion tank and then crank the engine.
If one or both head gaskets have failed and are allowing compression/combustion gases into the cooling system, you'll see coolant getting shot out of the expansion tank.
Now, if everything's working as it should, the coolant should remain undisturbed in the tank, even while the engine's cranking.
CAUTION: This test is performed with a cold engine! Do not remove the expansion tank's cap if the engine is hot. If the engine has been running for any length of time, then let it cool down completely before removing the expansion tank's cap!
These are the test steps:
- 1
Remove the cap from the expansion tank.
- 2
Check the coolant level and add water if necessary.
- 3
Have your helper to crank the engine, while you stand at a safe distance from the open radiator.
- 4
You'll see one of two results:
1.) The water or coolant inside the expansion tank will shoot up and out.
2.) The coolant will not be disturbed. In other words, cranking the engine will have no effect on the level of the water or coolant in the expansion tank.
Let's examine your test result:
CASE 1: The coolant bubbled out or shot out from the expansion tank as the engine was cranked. This result confirms that one or both head gasket are blown.
CASE 2: The coolant DID NOT bubble out NOR shoot out from the expansion tank as the engine was cranked. This is the correct test result.
If the engine doesn't start, your next step is: TEST 3: Engine Compression Test.
If the engine starts and runs but overheats, your next test is: TEST 4: Using A Chemical Block Tester (Combustion Leak Tester).
