Testing the ignition coils on the 4.6L and 5.4L V8 equipped Ford E-Series vans is a pretty straight-forward process.
Testing them doesn't require any expensive diagnostic tools and in this tutorial, I'll explain how you can test them. I'll show you where you can buy them.
Contents of this tutorial:
- Symptoms Of A Bad Ignition Coil.
- What Tools Do I Need?
- Where To Buy The Ignition Coils And Save.
- Making Sure The Connector Locking Tab Is Not Broken.
- TEST 1: Checking The Ignition Coil For Spark.
- TEST 2: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting 12 Volts.
- TEST 3: Checking The Ignition Coil's Activation Signal.
- Other Common Causes Of A Misfire.
- More 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E150, E250 And E350 Tutorials.
APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:
- 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E150: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009.
- 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E250: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009.
- 5.4L V8 Ford E350: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009.
F-Series Pickups: You can find the COP ignition coil tests for the 4.6L/5.4L V8 F-Series pickups here:
- How To Test The Coil-On-Plug Ignition Coils (1997-2010 4.6L, 5.4L Ford F150, F250, F350) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis: You can find the COP ignition coil tests for the Crown Vic and Grand Marquis here:
Symptoms Of A Bad Ignition Coil
Your 4.6L/5.4L V8 engine in your van comes equipped with 8 Coil-On-Plug ignition coils. If one of those coils decides to quit the show, you're gonna notice one or more of the following issues:
- Stumbling And Hesitation: The engine is gonna feel like it's struggling to keep up, especially when you're trying to accelerate or climbing. It's as if it's not firing on all cylinders.
- Check Engine Light: This little light of dread might flick on, often with a blink to catch your eye. Pulling codes that hint at cylinder-specific misfires? Those COP coils might just be the culprits.
- Engine Misfires: You'll notice the engine coughing and sputtering, whether you're idling or pushing the pedal down. You'll have one or more of the following diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in the computer's memory:
- P0300: Random Cylinder Misfire.
- P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire.
- P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire.
- P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire.
- P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire.
- P0305: Cylinder 5 Misfire.
- P0306: Cylinder 6 Misfire.
- P0307: Cylinder 7 Misfire.
- P0308: Cylinder 8 Misfire.
- Rough Idle: If your engine's smooth sound turns into a rough, unhappy growl, that's a clear sign something's off with one (or more) of those COP coils.
- Poor Fuel Economy: One or more faulty ignition coils can lead to your engine guzzling more fuel but not delivering the power.
What Tools Do I Need?
Here's a basic list of the tools you'll need:
- A Spark Tester: The spark tester I recommend for its ease of use and accurate test results is the OTC 6589 Electronic Spark Tester. You can see what it look like and can buy it here: OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester.
- Battery Jump Start Cables: You'll use a battery jump start cable to Ground your spark tester to the battery negative (-) terminal (to ensure a good Ground connection).
- 12 Volt automotive test light: The test light will help you check the ignition coil's activation signal.
- Terminal Test Probes Kit: This kit will help you avoid damaging the female terminal of the ignition coil connector when confirming the presence of 12 Volts and the ignition coil's activation signal. You can see an example of this tool and can buy it here: 68 PCS Automotive Circuit Test Lead Kit.
Lastly, you'll need a helper to crank the engine for you.
Where To Buy The Ignition Coils And Save
The following ignition coil recommendations are of known automotive brands that I would use/buy myself:
NOTE: Not sure if the ignition coil fits your specific Ford van? Don't worry. Once you get to the site, they'll ask you for the specifics of your vehicle. If it doesn't fit, they'll find you the right one.
Making Sure The Connector Locking Tab Is Not Broken
Before you start your ignition coil tests, it's important that you first check that all eight ignition coil connectors aren't damaged or broken and that they're securely connected to their ignition coils.
Why check the connectors? Because broken locking tabs on their connectors are one of the most common issues with Ford COP ignition coils.
To explain a bit more, each connector has a plastic tab that locks it to the ignition coil, preventing it from coming loose. Unfortunately, these locking tabs are infamous for breaking easily, often just from disconnecting the connector from the ignition coil.
Given that this is a very common issue, it's a frequent cause of misfire issues in Ford COP ignition systems. You can easily check for this by gently pulling on each ignition coil connector (without pressing the locking tab) to see if it comes off.
If one does come loose, bingo—you've probably found the cause of the misfire issue you're dealing with. To fix this, you'll need to replace the connector. And if you need to buy replacements, you can find them here: PICO 5713PT FORD Ignition Coil-2.
TEST 1: Checking The Ignition Coil For Spark
Checking the ignition coils for spark is a pretty easy thing to do. The key to getting the most accurate test result is to use a spark tester.
You can use any spark tester you have or want. I use the OTC 6589 Spark Tester simply because I just plug it in and crank the engine and I don't have to interpret the color of the spark or make any adjustments at all.
With this spark tester, if it sparks, the ignition coil is good. If no spark, the ignition coil has got a problem.
The test instructions below assume that you're testing all eight ignition coils, but you don't have to. You can apply the instructions to testing one or two ignition coils, whatever your particular situation calls for.
Let's get started:
- 1
Remove the ignition coil from its place on the engine.
NOTE: It may be necessary to unplug the ignition coil from its 2-wire connector to remove it. If so, be sure and reconnect it to continue on to step 2. - 2
Attach a spark tester to the ignition coil (as shown in the photo above).
- 3
Ground the HEI spark tester directly on the battery negative (-) post with a battery jump start cable.
- 4
Have your helper crank the engine while you observe the spark tester.
- 5
You're gonna' get one of two results: spark or no spark.
- 6
Disconnect the spark tester and put the ignition coil back in place.
- 7
Repeat the test for all of the remaining ignition coils.
Let's interpret your test result:
CASE 1: All eight ignition coils sparked. This is the correct and expected test result.
If the engine isn't starting or is suffering a misfire issue, it's not due to an issue with the ignition coils.
I recommend the following tests:
- Engine compression test.
- Fuel injector tests.
CASE 2: One or more ignition coils DID NOT spark. This generally tells you that the ignition coil that did not spark is bad.
To make sure, we need to make sure it's getting 12 Volts. For this test go to: TEST 2: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting 12 Volts.
CASE 3: You got NO spark from ALL eight ignition coils.