How To Test The MAP Sensor (GM 2.4L Quad 4)

By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
Created: 07 June 2011
Updated: 14 February 2024
Articl Id: 143

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MAP SENSOR TEST 2: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting 5 Volts

Verifying The MAP Sensor Is Getting Power. How To Test The MAP Sensor (GM 2.4L Quad 4)

So far, in MAP TEST 1, you have verified that the MAP sensor on your 2.4L Quad 4 GM car is not creating a signal or the signal is erratic

And so, in this MAP sensor test step, you're gonna' verify that the MAP sensor is getting power, since without power it won't work. This power come in the form of 5 Volts and the PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer) is the one that provides this juice.

Since this circuit is directly connected to the PCM, be careful and don't short this wire to battery power (12 Volts), or you run the risk of frying the PCM.

Alright, this is what you'll need to do:

1
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
2
Disconnect the MAP sensor from its electrical connector.
3
Turn the key ON but don't crank or start the engine.
4
Probe the wire labeled with the number 1, in the image above, with the red multimeter test lead.

You can test for these 5 Volts with the MAP sensor's electrical connector connected to the MAP sensor or not, just avoid probing the front of the connector.
5
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery's negative (-) post.
6
Your multimeter should show you 4.5 to 5 Volts DC.

OK, now that the testing part is done, let's take a look at what your results mean:

CASE 1: The multimeter registered 5 Volts. This is the correct result and it's starting to look like the MAP sensor is bad but you still need to check that the MAP sensor is getting Ground.

For the Ground test, go to: MAP SENSOR TEST 3: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting Ground.

CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 5 Volts. This results lets you know that the MAP sensor is not bad, since without these 5 Volts DC, the MAP sensor can not function.

Although it's beyond the scope of this article to troubleshoot the cause of these missing 5 Volts, you have now eliminated the MAP sensor as bad. Resolving the issue that is keeping these 5 Volts from being supplied will solve the MAP sensor issue on your 2.4L Quad 4 GM car.

MAP SENSOR TEST 3: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting Ground

Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting Ground. How To Test The MAP Sensor (GM 2.4L Quad 4)

The next step (after verifying the MAP signal and power circuit) is to make sure that the MAP sensor on your 2.4L Quad 4 GM car has a good path to Ground. So, in this test step, you're gonna' verify that the MAP sensor is getting Ground using your multimeter once again.

IMPORTANT: Since this circuit is directly connected to the PCM, be very careful and don't short this wire to battery power (12 Volts), or you WILL FRY the PCM.

Alright, this is what you'll need to do:

1
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
2
Disconnect the MAP sensor from its electrical connector.
3
Turn the key ON but don't crank or start the engine.
4
Probe the wire labeled with the number 3 in the image above, with the black multimeter test lead.
5
Now connect the red multimeter test lead on the battery's positive (+) post.
6
Your multimeter should show 10 to 12 Volts.

OK, let's take a look at what your results mean:

CASE 1: The multimeter registered 12 Volts. This is the normal and expected test result and confirms that the MAP sensor is getting Ground. This test result also tells you that the MAP sensor is bad only if you have verified that it's not producing a map signal (TEST 1) and that it is getting power (5 Volts).

If the MAP sensor is defective, take a look at: Where To Buy The MAP Sensor And Save.

CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts. Double check your multimeter connections and repeat the test. If your multimeter results still do not indicate 12 Volts, then the MAP is not fried and not the cause of the MAP diagnostic trouble code (DTC) issue.

Here's why: Without a good path to Ground, that the PCM provides internally, the MAP sensor will not work. With this test result, you have eliminated the MAP sensor as bad.

The MAP Sensor Code Won't Go Away

So you've tested the MAP sensor and according to the test results, it's good. But the check engine light keeps coming back on even after you erased the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) from the computer's (PCM) memory. Well, here are a couple of suggestions that might inspire your next diagnostic move:

1
The MAP sensor's O-rings, the ones located on the vacuum inlet nipple are missing or are too old and they're not sealing properly. Visually check the O-rings and replace if necessary.
2
The engine has several cylinders with very low engine compression causing it to idle rough and thus producing low or erratic vacuum. For this I suggest a compression test.
3
The MAP sensor is failing intermittently. Which means that it works fine most of the time, but every now and then, it doesn't:

I have found that the best way to test these intermittent problems is to slightly tap the MAP sensor with the handle of a screw-driver and see if this tapping screws up the voltage readings as I apply vacuum.
4
The MAP sensor's connector is bad, usually the locking tab is broken and the connector has worked itself loose, causing an intermittent false connection.
5
Your fuel pump is starting to go bad and is not sending enough fuel and/or fuel pressure up to the fuel injectors. I suggest a fuel pump test.