How To Test The Starter Motor (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic)

Testing the starter motor is not as difficult as it may seem. I think you'll be surprised just how easy it is to troubleshoot a bad starter motor on your 1.5L Honda Civic.

In this tutorial, I'll explain how to test the starter motor. You'll easily and quickly determine if it's good or bad with your test results.

NOTE: All tests in this tutorial are on-car tests. The images I'm using show the starter motor off the vehicle in order to better explain the test connections only.

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

• 1.5L Honda Civic: 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995.
• 1.5L Honda Civic Del Sol: 1993, 1994, 1995.

Wiring Diagrams: You can find the starting system circuit wiring diagrams here:

• Starter Motor Circuit Wiring Diagram (1992-1993 1.5L Honda Civic).
• Starter Motor Circuit Wiring Diagram (1994-1995 1.5L Honda Civic).

Important Testing Tips

The following testing tips will help you test the starter motor without complications:

TIP 1: You must perform all tests with a battery that's fully charged. If the battery has a low charge, charge it up before beginning any of the indicated tests.

TIP 2: The battery cable terminals and the battery posts should be clean and corrosion-free before starting the tests.

TIP 3: Read the entire article first to familiarize yourself with the tests.

TIP 4: If you need to lift you Honda Civic, place it on jack stands for safety. Don't trust the jack alone to keep your vehicle up in the air while you're underneath it!

TIP 5: Take all necessary safety precautions. Use safety glasses while working underneath the vehicle. Be alert and think safety all of the time.

Symptoms Of A Bad Starter Motor

A bad starter motor usually causes one of two problems:

• The engine doesn't crank. To be more specific, you turn the key to crank and start the engine, but nothing happens.
• An intermittent engine no-crank problem. In this type of failure, the engine cranks and starts most of the time, but now and then, it won't.

N most cases, the starter motor will fail and never function again. The end result is that the engine doesn't turn over to start (when you turn the key to start it).

Unfortunately, the starter motor can fail intermittently. In these cases, the starter motor functions well most of the time, but it refuses to come out and play every now and then.

An intermittent no-crank problem is the hardest to diagnose since you've got to test a starter motor when it isn't cranking the engine.

Why Does My Honda Civic's Starter Motor Look Different?

The 1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic uses several different starter motors. The starter motor type will depend on the year of your Civic and whether the transaxle is automatic or manual.

If the starter motor on your particular 1.5L Honda Civic doesn't look like the one in the images I'm using, don't worry.

Its physical appearance may be different, but it works the same, and all test steps will apply.

Why? Because all 1.5L Honda Civic starter motor types will have an 'S' terminal and a battery (+) terminal. They are all tested the same way!

TEST 1: Applying 12 Volts To The 'S' Terminal

For your first test, you'll check if the starter motor activates and turns the engine over when you apply 12 Volts DC directly to its solenoid's 'S' terminal.

The easiest and fastest way to accomplish this test is with a remote starter switch. This is an inexpensive tool that will speed out the test.

If you don't have a remote starter switch, you can check it and buy it here: Innova 3630 Remote Starter Switch (Amazon affiliate link).

IMPORTANT: All tests in this tutorial are on-car tests. The images I'm using show the starter motor off the vehicle in order to better explain the test connections only.

CAUTION: Remove the key from the ignition switch for this test.

OK, let's start:

1. 1

   Raise your Honda Civic and place on it jack stands. Remember, the only way to gain access to the starter motor is from underneath the vehicle.

2. 2

   Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal.
   
   You'll reconnect it back in one of the following steps, for now, it's a safety precaution as you set up the test.

3. 3

   Attach one end of the remote starter switch to the battery positive (+) post.

4. 4

   Attach one end of the remote starter switch to the 'S' terminal of the starter motor solenoid.
   
   This is easier said than done, so take your time and make sure the connection is on the 'S' terminal of the starter motor solenoid.
   
   Also, in case you're wondering, you can leave the starter motor solenoid's 'S' terminal wire connected to the engine's wiring harness connector or not, the test will work either way.

5. 5

   Reconnect the battery negative (-) cable to the battery negative (-) post.

6. 6

   Apply 12 Volts to the 'S' terminal wire of the starter motor starter solenoid with your remote starter switch.

7. 7

   You'll get one of two results:
   
   1.) The starter will activate and will turn over the engine.
   
   2.) The starter motor won't do a thing.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The starter motor cranked the engine. This is the correct and expected test result.

You can conclude that the starter motor itself is OK. The next step is to see if the starter motor is getting the 12 Volt Start signal on the 'S' terminal wire. Go to: TEST 2: Verifying The 12 Volt Start Signal.

CASE 2: The starter motor DID NOT crank the engine. This test result generally tells you that the starter motor is bad.

I suggest you perform two more tests. First, make sure the starter motor is getting its 12 Volt Start signal. Second, and the most important of the two, is to voltage drop test the battery cable (that attaches to the starter motor solenoid).

• Go to: TEST 2: Verifying The 12 Volt Start Signal.
• Go to: TEST 3: Voltage Drop Testing The Battery (+) Cable.

TEST 2: Verifying The 12 Volt Start Signal

If you've reached this point, you've confirmed that the starter motor activates when you apply 12 Volts directly to its 'S' terminal.

Since the starter motor isn't activating when you use the ignition key, your next step is to make sure that it receives an activation signal.

The wire that connects to the 'S' terminal delivers this activation signal (to it).

And as you're already aware, this activation signal will only be present in the wire when you turn the key to crank and start the engine.

Let's get testing:

1. 1

   Set your multimeter to Volts DC mode.

2. 2

   Disconnect the 'S' terminal from its 1-wire connector.

3. 3

   Connect the black multimeter test lead directly on the negative battery terminal.

4. 4

   Connect the red multimeter test lead to the 'S' terminal wire using an appropriate tool.
   
   The 'S' terminal is labeled with the S arrow in the image above.
   
   The 'S' terminal wire (circuit) is the one that delivers the Start (Crank) signal from the ignition switch.

5. 5

   Have your helper turn the key to crank the engine when the test is setup.

6. 6

   Your multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC.

OK, let's interpret your test results:

CASE 1: Your multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts. This is the correct and expected test result and it confirms that the starter motor is receiving its activation signal.

Now, in the majority of the cases, you could stop testing here and replace the starter motor and be done. But, I suggest one more test so that you can be absolutely sure there isn't another issue to deal with.

Your next test is to voltage drop test the battery positive (+) cable. This is a very easy and simple test to do. Go to: TEST 3: Voltage Drop Testing The Battery (+) Cable.

CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts. This test result lets you know that the starter motor isn't receiving an activation signal.

Although finding out why this activation signal is missing is beyond the scope of this tutorial, the most likely causes are:

• A bad park-neutral safety switch.
• A bad clutch pedal switch.
• A bad ignition switch.

TEST 3: Voltage Drop Testing The Battery (+) Cable

The amperage that the starter motor needs to crank the engine over comes directly from your 1.5L Honda Civic's battery.

Corrosion or false connection issues can cause this wire to suffer a voltage drop.

This voltage drop will impede the battery's maximum amperage output from reaching the starter motor. Without the battery's total amperage output, the starter motor won't crank the engine.

In this test section, you'll perform a simple multimeter voltage drop test on the battery positive wire to make sure that all of the battery's amperage output reaches the starter motor.

IMPORTANT: The starter motor must be connected to all its connectors to perform this test.

These are the test steps:

1. 1

   Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.

2. 2

   Attach the red multimeter test lead to the positive (+) battery post. The positive (+) battery post must be clean and corrosion-free.
   
   You may need two helpers for this test step, since someone will have to hold the red multimeter test lead onto the battery positive (+) terminal bolt and someone else inside the vehicle (to crank it when everything is set up).

3. 3

   Place the black multimeter test lead on the starter motor solenoid stud that connects to the battery positive (+) cable (see illustration above).
   
   The orange arrow with the plus (+) sign, in the illustration above, points to this stud.
   
   Maintain the black multimeter test lead in this position throughout the next step.

4. 4

   When everything is ready, have your helper turn the key to crank the engine.
   
   Although the starter motor won't crank the engine, your helper has to turn the ignition switch to start the engine for the voltage drop test to work.

5. 5

   The multimeter should register 0.5 Volts or less (0.5 V = 0 Volts).
   
   If there's a problem in the wire, your multimeter will register some voltage, usually 5 Volts or more.

Let's take a look at what your results mean:

CASE 1: Your multimeter indicated NO voltage drop (which is 0.5 Volts or less). This is the correct test result and it confirms the starter motor is receiving all of the battery voltage and amperage it needs to crank the engine.

You can conclude that the starter motor is bad and needs replacement if you have:

• Confirmed that the starter motor does not crank the engine (TEST 1).
• Confirmed that the starter motor is receiving an activation signal (TEST 2).
• Confirmed, in this test section, that the battery positive (+) cable does not have a voltage drop issue.

Now, before you remove the starter motor, do one more important thing:

• Turn the engine manually (using a 1/2 ratchet and the appropriate socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt). This will check to see if the engine is mechanically locked up (or not).

If you'd like to bench test the starter motor (after removing it). You can find the step-by-step instructions here:

• How To Bench Test A Starter Motor (Step By Step) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).

CASE 2: Your multimeter registered 5 Volts or more. This result tells you that a voltage drop does exist in the wire (and it's not a good thing).

This voltage drop will prevent the battery's total amperage output from reaching the starter motor.

Generally, a voltage drop in this wire is usually due to hidden corrosion or a false contact issue.

Your next step is to thoroughly clean both ends of the battery positive (+) cable and ensure that all connections are tight.

I recommend you use a small piece of sandpaper to clean the round terminal of the wire that connects to the starter motor battery (+) terminal. Once both ends of the battery positive cable are clean, reconnect everything and try cranking the engine. If the voltage drop was the cause of the no-crank condition, the starter motor will now crank the engine.

More 1.5L Honda Civic Tutorials

You can find a complete list of 1.5L Honda Civic tutorials in this index:

• 1.5L Honda Civic Index Of Articles.

Here's a small sample of the tutorials you'll find in the index:

• How To Test The PGM-FI Main Relay (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic).
• How To Test The Fuel Injectors (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic).
• How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic).
• How To Test Engine Compression (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic).