How To Test The Alternator (1998-2001 1.3L Swift -Metro)

TEST 2: Checking The Continuity Of The Bat (+) Cable

As you're probably already aware, the alternator has two connectors. One connector is a 3-wire connector.

The other is a simple 1-wire connector. This one wire connector has a heavy gauge wire attached to it and connects to the alternator via a nut and stud configuration.

Well, this heavy gauge wire is the one that transmits the alternator's charge output to the battery. This wire doesn't connect directly to the battery. It connects to a 80 Amp mega fuse first. This mega fuse then connects to the battery positive cable.

Every now and then, this mega fuse gets blown. So, in this step we're gonna check this circuit both visually and with a multimeter continuity test.

Now in case you're wondering where this mega fuse is located... it's located in the engine compartment fuse box and is labeled with the number 1 in the 2nd illustration in the image viewer above.

NOTE: The battery negative terminal must be disconnected from the battery negative post to perform this continuity test.

This is what you'll need to do:

1. 1

   Disconnect the battery negative (-) cable terminal from the battery negative post. The positive cable remains connected.
   
   IMPORTANT: Don't continue to the next step without first disconnecting the negative cable from the negative battery post.

2. 2

   After disconnecting the battery negative (-) cable, turn on your multimeter and select Ohms mode.
   
   IMPORTANT: The engine must be cold to perform this test, or you run the risk of getting burned by the engine's hot surfaces!

3. 3

   Your Suzuki's alternator has only one big wire attached to it. This wire is attached with a nut. So, place your multimeter's RED test lead on the stud to which this wire is connected to.
   
   See the illustration in the image viewer.

4. 4

   With the black multimeter test lead, probe the center of the battery positive post on your Suzuki's battery.

5. 5

   You'll get one of two results.
   
   1.) If the mega fuse, protecting this circuit, is blown, your multimeter will indicate a reading of OL (which means over limit). In other words, there will be NO continuity.
   
   2.) If the inline fusible link is OK and not blown, your multimeter will register an Ohms reading of 0.5 Ohms or less. In other words, there will be continuity.

Let's take a look at what your results mean:

CASE 1: Your multimeter registered continuity. This is good, since it indicates that the inline fusible link protecting this circuit is OK and not blown.

Your next step is to check the under-dash fuse (that also feeds the alternator battery voltage) in the under-dash panel fuse box. For this test go to: TEST 3: Checking The Alternator Fuse.

CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register continuity. This result tells you that the 70 Amp mega fuse is blown and this will keep the alternator from charging the battery.

Your next step is to check and replace this mega fuse (if applicable) and retest. Replacing this mega fuse (if blown) should solve your No Charge condition. You'll have to investigate the reason this mega fuse blew, since they don't get blown for no particular reason.

TEST 3: Checking The Alternator Fuse

If you've reached this point you have checked/confirmed 3 things:

One: Your Suzuki Swift's alternator is not charging the battery and the battery light is shining nice and bright on the instrument panel.

Two: The battery voltage with the engine running is below 12.5 Volts and decreases when you turned everything one to 10 Volts or less (TEST 1).

Three: There's continuity between the battery positive post and the battery output terminal on the alternator (TEST 2).

The next and last step is just to make sure that the alternator fuse IS NOT blown in the under-dash fuse box.

This is what you need to do:

1. 1

   Reconnect the battery negative cable to the battery.

2. 2

   Locate the under-dash fuse box fuse labeled with the #4 in illustration in the image viewer.

3. 3

   Remove the fuse and check to see if it's blown (or not).

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The fuse IS NOT blown. This tells you that the alternator FIELD circuit is getting power and confirms that the alternator is bad and needs to be replaced to solve the ‘no charge’ problem.

If you'd like to save some bucks on the alternator and belt, take a look at: Where To Buy The Alternator And Save.

CASE 2: The fuse is blown. This tells you that the alternator's FIELD circuit is not getting power and without this battery power the alternator won't charge.

Replace the fuse and retest the alternator.

Where To Buy The Alternator And Save

The alternator can get expensive and the best place to save some bucks on it and the serpentine be is by shopping online.

The following links will help you comparison shop for the alternator and serpentine belt:

Not sure if the above alternator and serpentine belt fit your particular vehicle? Once you get to the site they'll make sure they fit by asking you the specifics of your particular Suzuki Swift (Chevy Metro). If it doesn't fit, they'll find you the right parts.

More 1.3L Swift (Chevy Metro) Tutorials

You can find a complete list of tutorials in this index: Suzuki 1.3L Index Of Articles.

Here's a small sample of the 1.3L Swift tutorials you'll find in the index:

• How To Test The MAP Sensor (1998-2001 1.3L Swift / Chevy Metro).
• How To Test The TP Sensor (1998-2001 1.3L Swift / Chevy Metro).
• How To Test The Ignition Coils Suzuki: Swift, Vitara - Chevy: Metro, Tracker (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
• How To Troubleshoot A Misfire (Suzuki 1.3L, 1.6L, 1.8L, 2.0L, 2.3L) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
• How To Do A Compression Test (Suzuki 1.3L, 1.6L, 1.8L, 2.0L, 2.3L) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
• Blown Head Gasket Test (Suzuki 1.3L, 1.6L, 1.8L, 2.0L, 2.3L, 2.5L) (at:easyautodiagnostics.com).