TEST 3: Swap The 'No Spark' COP Coil
In this last test step, you're gonna' swap the ignition coil that wasn't sparking with the one next to it (or one of the other three that you know is sparking).
Why swap ignition coils? This is to double check that the electrical connector of the one that isn't sparking is supplying power, Ground, and an activation signal.
Alright, this is what you'll need to do:
- 1
Disconnect and remove the COP ignition coil that did not spark in the previous test section.
- 2
Choose one of the other COP coils that is sparking and remove it from its place.
NOTE: If you need to make sure that this COP ignition coil is sparking, you can test it with your spark tester. - 3
Once the good COP coil is removed, connect it to the bad COP coil's electrical connector.
- 4
Connect the HEI spark tester to the good COP coil.
- 5
Ground the HEI spark tester with a jump start cable directly on the battery negative (-) terminal.
- 6
Place the bad COP ignition coil in the location of the good one you just removed and bolt it down.
- 7
Have your helper crank the engine once everything is set up.
- 8
You'll see one of two results:
1.) The spark tester will spark.
2.) The spark tester WILL NOT spark.
Let's take a look at your test results:
CASE 1: The COP ignition coil sparked. This tells you that the COP coil that did not spark in TEST 2 is bad and needs to be replaced.
Here's why: By placing a good and sparking ignition coil in place of the bad one and having spark still come out of the good one, proves that the non-sparking coil:
- Is getting power (10 to 12 Volts).
- Is getting the PCM's triggering signal.
- Is being fed with Ground.
CASE 2: The COP ignition coil DID NOT spark. This lets you know that the COP ignition coil that did not spark is not sparking because one of the three wires of its harness connector is missing a signal.
The next step for you is to:
- Check that the ignition coil is being fed with power (10 to 12 Volts).
- That the PCM's is providing triggering signal.
- That the ignition coil is being fed Ground.
Although these specific tests are beyond the scope of this article, you now have eliminated the ignition coil as bad and now have an idea of what direction your diagnostic/troubleshooting needs to go in.
Spark Plug Tube Seals Leaking Engine Oil
A very common problem with the 1.7L equipped Honda Civic DX, EX, or LX is engine oil leaking into the spark plug tube from the valve cover spark plug tube seals.
Depending on how much and how long the spark plug tube seal has been leaking, the ignition coil's spark plug boot and the spark plug could be swimming in engine oil, which will cause the ignition coil to misfire.
If you encounter this, you have two options. The obvious one is to clean the oil off and reuse. The other one is to replace the ignition coil and the spark plug with a new one.
The only problem with the first option (the cleaning off of the oil) is that it isn't always a sure cure. So, if you clean and the misfire continues in that cylinder then you'll need to replace the ignition coil (because the boot is not replaceable).
Where To Buy The COP Ignition Coils
You can buy the COP ignition coil at your local auto parts store or if you're like me and need to save money on any kind of purchase, you can buy it online.
You can check it out here:
Honda 1.7L
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More 1.7L Honda Civic Tutorials
You can find a complete list of tutorials for your 1.7L Honda Civic here:
Here's a small sample of the tutorials you'll find in the index:
- How To Do A Cylinder Balance Test (2001-2005 1.7L Honda Civic).
- How To Test Trouble Code P0141 (2001-2005 1.7L Honda Civic).
- How To Test The TP Sensor (2001-2005 1.7L Honda Civic).
- How To Test Trouble Code P0135 (2001-2003 1.7L Honda Civic).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!


