How To Test The Ignition Coil Pack (2000-2004 2.0L Ford Focus)

TEST 4: Testing For Spark At The Ignition Coil Pack (Paired Cylinders)

IMPORTANT: This test section only applies if in TEST 1 you got no spark from spark plug wires that connect to paired cylinders. The paired cylinders are cylinder 1 and 4 and cylinders 2 and 3.

Those two spark plug wires didn't spark for one of the following reasons:

• The spark plug wires are toast.
• The ignition coil pack is bad.
• The ignition coil isn't receiving one of its two activation signals.

To find out what's going on, we're going to check each coil pack tower for spark with our spark tester.

Depending on our test result, we'll quickly find out if the spark plug wires are bad or if we need to continue digging a little deeper.

NOTE: Paired cylinders are 1 & 4 and 2 & 3. If both non-sparking wires belong to non-paired cylinders, this test doesn't apply. Go to: TEST 3: Testing For Spark At The Ignition Coil Pack (Non-Paired Cylinders).

1. 1

   Remove the spark plug wire that did not spark from the coil pack.

2. 2

   Place the spark tester directly on the coil pack tower for that wire (see the example in the photo above).

3. 3

   Connect the spark tester to the battery negative (-) terminal using a battery jump start cable.

4. 4

   Have your helper crank the engine.
   
   CAUTION: The engine may start, so be careful.

5. 5

   You'll see one of two results: Spark or NO spark.

6. 6

   Remove the spark tester and reconnect the wire to its coil pack tower.

7. 7

   Repeat the same spark test on the other coil pack tower —the one that connects to the second non-sparking wire you identified in TEST 1.

Let's take a look at what your test result means:

CASE 1: You got spark from both towers. This means the coil pack is good, but the wires are bad; replace all spark plug wires as a set.

CASE 2: You got no spark from one tower but spark from the other. This test result confirms two things:

• The ignition coil pack is bad —since only one tower is sparking.
• The spark plug wire is bad —this is the wire that belongs to the tower that sparked.

Replace the coil pack and all four spark plug wires.

CASE 3: You got no spark from both towers. This is why the spark plug wires didn't spark in TEST 1.

This could be the result of a bad coil pack or a missing activation signal. Our next step depends on what coil pack towers didn't spark:

• If coil towers for cylinders 1 & 4 are not sparking, go to: TEST 6: Activation Signal For Cylinders 1 And 4.
• If coil towers for cylinders 2 & 3 are not sparking, go to: TEST 7: Activation Signal For Cylinders 2 And 3.

TEST 5: Testing The Power (12 Volts) Circuit

If all four spark plug wires aren't sparking in TEST 1, there's a good chance the coil pack isn't getting the 12 Volts it needs to generate spark.

In this section, we're gonna make sure those IGN 12 Volts (only present with the key in RUN or START) are available at female terminal 2 of the 3-wire coil pack connector.

To verify power at terminal 2, we'll do a simple multimeter voltage test with the key in RUN (but with the engine OFF).

NOTE: When probing the connector with your multimeter test leads, be careful not to damage the female terminal —otherwise you'll have to replace the connector.

Alright, let's get the ball rolling:

1. 1

   Disconnect the coil pack from its connector.

2. 2

   Turn the key to the RUN position but don't crank the engine.

3. 3

   Put the multimeter in Volts DC mode.

4. 4

   Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.

5. 5

   Gently probe the front of terminal 2 with the red multimeter test lead.

6. 6

   You should see 10-12 Volts on your multimeter.

Let's find out what your test result means:

CASE 1: 10 to 12V DC are present at terminal 2. This confirms the coil pack is getting the IGN power it needs to generate spark.

With IGN voltage confirmed, the next step is to check the Coil A and Coil B activation signals. Go to: TEST 8: Checking Coil A And B Activation Signals.

CASE 2: 10 to 12V DC are not present at terminal 2. Double-check your connections and repeat the test.

If you still don't see IGN voltage, you can rule out the coil pack as the cause of the engine no-start (since it can't function without power).

Your next step is to troubleshoot the missing IGN voltage and restore it to the circuit.

TEST 6: Activation Signal For Cylinders 1 And 4

Up to this point, you've confirmed:

• TEST 1 —Cylinders 1 and 4 spark plug wires didn't spark.
• TEST 4 —Cylinders 1 and 4 coil pack towers didn't spark either.

For the next step, we're gonna check if Ignition Coil A (which fires spark for cylinders 1 & 4) is receiving its activation signal from your Focus's powertrain control module (PCM).

The Coil A control signal is delivered to terminal 1 of the coil pack's 3-wire connector.

To check for this signal at terminal 1, we'll use a standard automotive 12V incandescent test light.

NOTE: Use a regular 12-Volt test light with an incandescent bulb to check for the coil's activation signal. If you don't have one, this is the one I recommend —you can buy it here: Lisle 28400 Heavy Duty 12 Volt Test Light (Amazon affiliate link).

Alright, let's start:

1. 1

   Disconnect the coil pack's 3-wire connector.

2. 2

   Clip the alligator lead of your 12V test light to the battery negative (-) post.

3. 3

   Probe female terminal 1 of the coil pack connector with the tip of the test light.
   
   Confirm that terminal 1 actually connects to the black with orange stripe (BLK/ORG) wire of the connector.
   
   NOTE: Be careful not to damage the female terminal with the probe —if you do, you'll have to replace the connector.

4. 4

   Have your helper crank the engine.

5. 5

   The 12V test light should flash ON and OFF the whole time the engine cranks.
   
   NOTE: Don't worry about what the test light does before cranking the engine —whether it comes on or not. What matters is that it flashes while the engine is cranking.

Let's find out what your test result means:

CASE 1: The test light flashed ON and OFF. This confirms the PCM is sending the Coil A activation signal.

You can conclude the coil pack is bad (and needs replacing) if you've confirmed all of the following:

• Spark plug wires for cylinders 1 & 4 are not sparking (TEST 1).
• Coil towers for cylinders 1 & 4 are not sparking (TEST 3).
• Coil A activation signal is present at terminal 1.

These are the coil packs I would go with —from Standard Motor Products and Motorcraft. Both are brands I've used my entire automotive repair career and ones I recommend:

• Standard Motor Products FD497T Ignition Coil (Amazon affiliate link).
• Motorcraft - IGN Coil DG536 (Amazon affiliate link).

CASE 2: The test light DID NOT flash ON and OFF. This means Coil A isn't receiving its activation signal from the PCM, which explains why the spark plug wires and coil pack towers for cylinders 1 & 4 aren't sparking.

Your next step is to figure out why the Coil A activation signal is missing and restore it to the circuit. Most likely, the Coil A signal wire has an open-circuit problem between the PCM and the coil pack connector.