How To Test: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A and B (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)

By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
Created: 24 May 2013
Updated: 12 July 2026
Articl Id: 464

Testing the A/T clutch pressure solenoid A or B isn't difficult. Testing them consists of two basic tests.

One test is measuring the solenoid's internal resistance and making sure it's within specification. The other test is a bench-test that requires the manual application of power (12 Volts) and Ground to the solenoid.

In this tutorial, I'll show you how to do both in a step-by-step manner and help you get to the bottom of the P1768: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A and P1773: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B trouble codes lighting up the D4 light and/or the check engine light on your Honda.

Contents of this tutorial:

Symptoms Of A Bad A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B.
Basics Of A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A And B.
START HERE: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A And B Tests.
TEST 1: Resistance Testing The A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B.
TEST 2: Manually Applying Power And Ground To The Solenoid.
Solenoids Are Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting.
More Honda Accord Tutorials.

The following related tutorials may be of help:

ES You can find this tutorial in Spanish here: Cómo Probar: Solenoides A y B de Control de Presión del Embrague (Honda) (at: autotecnico-online.com).

Symptoms Of A Bad A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B

Here's a breakdown of the symptoms produced by each A/T clutch pressure control solenoid (when it fails):

Trouble code P1768: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A Electrical registering in the PCM's memory.
Trouble code P1773: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical registering in the PCM's memory.
D4 light blinking on the instrument cluster.
When shifting from N to D3 or D4, the transmission takes longer than normal to get into forward gear and/or shifts hard.
When shifting from N to R, the transmission takes longer than normal to get into reverse gear.
Shifts hard or flares between all upshifts and downshifts.
Torque converter lock up clutch doesn't operate smoothly and/or once engaged, it doesn't disengage.
Torque converter lock up clutch doesn't engage.

Basics Of A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A And B

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A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A and solenoid B are part of the same assembly.

So, when one fails, you'll have to replace the whole solenoid assembly.

In case you're wondering where exactly this solenoid assembly is located, image 2 of 2, in the image viewer shows you the location of the solenoid assembly on the automatic transmission case.

Here are some basic things you need to know about both clutch pressure control solenoids:

Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A:

The connector color is brown.
Terminal labeled #1 is the control circuit (from the PCM).
Terminal labeled #2 is fed Ground (from the PCM).

Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B:

The connector color is black.
Terminal labeled #1 is the control circuit (from the PCM).
Terminal labeled #2 is fed Ground (from the PCM).

START HERE: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A And B Tests

Troubleshooting clutch pressure control solenoid B or clutch pressure control solenoid C isn't hard. There are two basic tests and in this section, I'll briefly describe them.

The 2 tests in this tutorial are:

Resistance testing clutch pressure control solenoid in question..
- This test simply involves measuring the resistance of the clutch pressure control solenoid and comparing the value with the factory spec of approximately 5 Ohms.
- TEST 1: Resistance Testing The A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B.
Manually applying 12 Volts and Ground to the clutch pressure control solenoid in question.
- In this test, you'll apply power and Ground (from your Honda's battery) to the clutch pressure control solenoid and listen for a clicking sound.
- TEST 2: Manually Applying Power And Ground To The Solenoid.

TEST 1: Resistance Testing The A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B

The multimeter resistance test, in this test section, applies to both A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B since both are tested in the exact same way (and the resistance spec is the same for both too).

This test will also give you the opportunity to make sure that the solenoid assembly's connectors are not broken.

NOTE: The easiest, fastest way to test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A or A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B is removing the solenoid assembly off of the car.

OK, this is what you need to do:

1
Place your multimeter in Ohms mode.

Don't have a multimeter or need to upgrade yours? Check out my recommendation: Tekpower TP8268 AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter (Amazon affiliate link).
2
Measure the resistance between solenoid pins #1 and #2.

Remember, this test applies to either A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A or A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B.

NOTE: Clutch pressure control solenoid A's connector is brown and clutch pressure control solenoid B's connector is black.
3
Your multimeter should register approximately 5 Ohms if the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid is within specification.

Let's find out what it all means:

CASE 1: The resistance was approximately 5 Ohms. This test result tells you that the solenoid's internal coil is OK.

The next step is to bench-test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid and apply 12 Volts and Ground to it. For this test, go to: TEST 2: Manually Applying Power And Ground To The Solenoid.

CASE 2: The resistance WAS NOT approximately 5 Ohms. This test result tells you that the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid that you're testing is fried and needs to be replaced.

If you're testing A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A, then this test result confirms trouble code P1768: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A Electrical.

If you're testing A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B, then this test result confirms trouble code P1773: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical.

TEST 2: Manually Applying Power And Ground To The Solenoid

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We can bench test the clutch pressure control solenoid by manually applying power and Ground to it and seeing if the valve (inside the assembly) moves in a smooth/un-binding way.

The easiest and safest way to do this is using a power probe since a power probe lets you apply both Ground and power with a click of a button but not everyone has one (not too mention that they're kinda' expensive).

You can make your own jumper wires and I suggest using alligator clips with rubber insulating protectors (see photo 3 of 3 in the image viewer).

Using alligator clips with rubber insulating protectors will help you avoid shorting out the jumper wire that's carrying the juice (from the battery) to the solenoid.

OK, this is what you need to do:

1
Connect terminal #1 to battery power of the particular solenoid you're testing (A or B).

NOTE 1: Take all safety precautions when applying these 12 Volts to the terminal.

NOTE 2: Clutch pressure control solenoid A's connector is brown and clutch pressure control solenoid B's connector is black.
2
Connect terminal #2 to Ground of the particular solenoid you're testing (A or B).
3
You should be able to see the valve move, of the solenoid you're testing (inside the assembly) as soon as you Ground solenoid terminal #2 (see image 2 of 2 in the image viewer).

If all is good, the valve (which is visible from the under-side of the assembly) should move. When you un-Ground the solenoid, the valve should move back to its original position.

Let's see what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid's valve moved. This is the correct and expected test result.

If you're still having an A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A or an A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B trouble code, take a look at the test suggestions found here: Solenoids Are Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting.

CASE 2: The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid's valve DID NOT move or is binding. This test result tells you that the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid you just got done testing is fried and needs to be replaced.

If you're testing A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A, then this test result confirms trouble code P1768: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A Electrical.

If you're testing A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B, then this test result confirms trouble code P1773: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical.

Solenoids Are Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting

One of the most important things to consider, when diagnosing any transmission diagnostic trouble code (DTC), is if your Honda's automatic transmission is slipping. Why?

Because if your Honda's transmission is slipping, then replacing a transmission shift solenoid will not bring the transmission back. Only an overhaul can.

This doesn't mean you shouldn't troubleshoot the transmission trouble code making the D4 light blink.

If you've tested and found either solenoid (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B or A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B) good and your Honda's transmission isn't slipping yet a P1768: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A Electrical and P1773: a/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical keeps popping up, I would suggest that you:

Check the continuity of circuit #2 between the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid in question and the PCM with a multimeter.
Check the continuity of circuit #1 between the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid in question and the PCM with a multimeter.

The above two test will help you eliminate a possible ‘open’ in the wiring between the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid and the PCM (circuit #2) and between the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid and chassis Ground (circuit #1). To be able to do this, you'll need a wiring diagram of your specific Honda.

If after testing the wiring and you find no faults, then there's a good chance that you'll have to replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid in question to see if replacing it solves the problem. I know this isn't something you want to hear, but in some cases there's just no other way to troubleshoot the issue (I speak from personal experience and from comments other readers have sent in).

If after testing the solenoid, its related wiring, and/or replacing the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid and the problem still persists, then you either have a bad transmission (internal mechanical/hydraulic problem) or the PCM is bad. Before you run out and buy a PCM, let me tell you that it's very, very rare for a PCM to go bad and keep the transmission from shifting (it does happen but you're more likely to get hit by lightening than to have this happen to you).

Now, if your Honda's transmission is slipping, then replacing the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid in question isn't gonna' help bring the transmission back to normal. Slippage is a direct result of internal damage to the friction discs or hard parts. The only way to solve a slippage issue is overhauling the transmission.