Testing the A/T clutch pressure solenoid A or B isn't difficult. Testing them consists of two basic tests.
One test is measuring the solenoid's internal resistance and making sure it's within specification. The other test is a bench-test that requires the manual application of power (12 Volts) and Ground to the solenoid.
In this tutorial, I'll show you how to do both in a step-by-step manner and help you get to the bottom of the P1768: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A and P1773: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B trouble codes lighting up the D4 light and/or the check engine light on your Honda.
Contents of this tutorial:
- Symptoms Of A Bad A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B.
- Basics Of A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A And B.
- START HERE: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A And B Tests.
- TEST 1: Resistance Testing The A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B.
- TEST 2: Manually Applying Power And Ground To The Solenoid.
- Solenoids Are Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting.
- More Honda Accord Test Tutorials.
The following related tutorials may be of help:
- How To Test: Shift Solenoid B and C (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).
- How To Test: TCC Solenoid And Shift Solenoid A (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).
- How To Test: Transmission Range Switch (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).
You can find this tutorial in Spanish here: Cómo Probar: Solenoides A y B de Control de Presión del Embrague (Honda) (at: autotecnico-online.com).
Symptoms Of A Bad A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B
Here's a breakdown of the symptoms produced by each A/T clutch pressure control solenoid (when it fails):
- Trouble code P1768: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A Electrical registering in the PCM's memory.
- Trouble code P1773: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical registering in the PCM's memory.
- D4 light blinking on the instrument cluster.
- When shifting from N to D3 or D4, the transmission takes longer than normal to get into forward gear and/or shifts hard.
- When shifting from N to R, the transmission takes longer than normal to get into reverse gear.
- Shifts hard or flares between all upshifts and downshifts.
- Torque converter lock up clutch doesn't operate smoothly and/or once engaged, it doesn't disengage.
- Torque converter lock up clutch doesn't engage.
Basics Of A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A And B
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A and solenoid B are part of the same assembly.
So, when one fails, you'll have to replace the whole solenoid assembly.
In case you're wondering where exactly this solenoid assembly is located, image 2 of 2, in the image viewer shows you the location of the solenoid assembly on the automatic transmission case.
Here are some basic things you need to know about both clutch pressure control solenoids:
Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A:
- The connector color is brown.
- Terminal labeled #1 is the control circuit (from the PCM).
- Terminal labeled #2 is fed Ground (from the PCM).
Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B:
- The connector color is black.
- Terminal labeled #1 is the control circuit (from the PCM).
- Terminal labeled #2 is fed Ground (from the PCM).
START HERE: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A And B Tests
Troubleshooting clutch pressure control solenoid B or clutch pressure control solenoid C isn't hard. There are two basic tests and in this section I'll briefly describe them.
The 2 tests in this tutorial are:
- Resistance testing clutch pressure control solenoid in question..
- This test simply involves measuring the resistance of the clutch pressure control solenoid and comparing the value with the factory spec of approximately 5 Ohms.
- TEST 1: Resistance Testing The A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B.
- Manually applying 12 Volts and Ground to the clutch pressure control solenoid in question.
- In this test, you'll apply power and Ground (from your Honda's battery) to the clutch pressure control solenoid and listen for a clicking sound.
- TEST 2: Manually Applying Power And Ground To The Solenoid.
