How To Test: TCC Solenoid And Shift Solenoid A (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)

Testing the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid/Shift Solenoid A assembly isn't hard and in this tutorial I'm gonna' show you how in a step-by-step manner.

Now, in case you're wondering, the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid/Shift Solenoid A assembly is also known as the lock-up control solenoid assembly in Honda tech speak.

When this bad boy fails, diagnostic trouble codes P0753 and/or P1753 will be registered and the D4 indicator light will flash and/or the check engine light will illuminate.

The following Honda automatic transmission tutorials may be of help too:

• How To Test: Shift Solenoid B and C (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).
• How To Test: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A and B (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).
• How To Test: Transmission Range Switch (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).

ES You can find this tutorial in Spanish here: Cómo Probar: Solenoide TCC y Solenoide de Cambio A (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L) (at: autotecnico-online.com).

Symptoms Of A Bad Lock Up Solenoid Assembly

The symptoms of a bad lock-up shift solenoid assembly depend on which of the two solenoids has failed.

Here's a breakdown of the symptoms produced by each (when they fail):

Symptoms of a bad lock-up control solenoid:

• P1753: Problem in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit trouble code registered in the PCM's memory.
• D4 indicator light flashing.
• Torque converter lock-up doesn't operate smoothly.
• Torque converter lock-up doesn't engage.
• Torque converter lock-up doesn't disengage.

Symptoms of a bad shift solenoid A:

• P0753: Shift Solenoid A Electrical trouble code registered in the PCM's memory.
• D4 indicator light flashing.
• Erratic shifting.
• Doesn't shift into 4th gear (NOT TO BE confused with slipping in 4th gear).
• Your Honda does not move with shift lever in manual 2 position, but does in D4, D3, R and manual position 1.

Basics Of The Lock Up Solenoid Assembly

The solenoid assembly is made up of two solenoids. One is the torque converter clutch solenoid and the other is the shift solenoid A.

The solenoid assembly is located on the exterior of the transmission housing and bolted down by 3 bolts. Photo 1 of 2 and 2 of 2, in the image viewer, show the location of the assembly on the transmission itself.

Here's some basic, and I stress 'basic', info on both solenoids (that make up the assembly):

Torque converter clutch solenoid valve:

• PCM activates the solenoid as your Honda reaches a prescribed speed.
• Solenoid is activated only in 3rd and 4th gears only.
• When ‘On’, causes the lock up clutch to engage inside the torque converter.
• The torque converter clutch solenoid is also known as:
  • Lock-up control solenoid.
  • TCC solenoid.
• The lock-up control solenoid is identified in image 2 of 2 (in the image viewer).

Shift solenoid valve A:

• Works in conjunction with shift solenoid B and shift solenoid C.
• Is activated by the PCM.
• In D3 or D4, the solenoid is:
  • 1st gear: ON.
  • 2nd gear: ON.
  • 3rd gear: ON.
• Shift solenoid A is identified in image 2 of 2.

OK, let's get testing.

START HERE: Lock Up Solenoid Assembly Tests

Troubleshooting the lock-up solenoid assembly isn't hard. There are two basic tests for each solenoid that makes up the pack.

Here's a brief description of the 4 tests in this tutorial:

1. Resistance testing shift solenoid A..
   • This test simply involves measuring the resistance of shift solenoid A and comparing the value with the factory spec of 12-25 Ohms.
   • TEST 1: Shift Solenoid A Resistance Test.
2. Manually applying 12 Volts to shift solenoid A.
   • In this test, you'll use a jumper wire to apply power (from your Honda's battery) to shift solenoid A and listen for a clicking sound.
   • TEST 2: Applying 12 V To Shift Solenoid A.
3. Resistance testing the TCC lock-up solenoid..
   • This test simply involves measuring the resistance of the TCC lock-up solenoid and comparing the value with the factory spec of 12-25 Ohms.
   • TEST 3: TCC Lock-up Solenoid Resistance Test.
4. Manually applying 12 Volts to the TCC lock-up solenoid..
   • In this test, you'll use a jumper wire to apply power (from your Honda's battery) to the TCC lock-up solenoid and listen for a clicking sound.
   • TEST 4: Applying 12 V To The TCC Lock-Up Solenoid.

TEST 1: Shift Solenoid A Resistance Test

In this first test, we're gonna' measure the shift solenoid's internal resistance and see if it's within specification.

If it isn't within specification, then you've confirmed that shift solenoid is bad and also the cause of the P0735 DTC.

NOTE: Perform this test with a completely cold engine/transmission to avoid getting your hands burned.

OK, this is what you need to do:

1. 1

   Place your multimeter in Ohms mode.

2. 2

   Unplug the lock up solenoid assembly from its electrical connector.
   
   NOTE: This test is done on the lock-up solenoid's connector AND NOT on the engine wiring harness' pigtail connector.

3. 3

   Measure the resistance between terminal labeled with the #2, in the image viewer above, and the solenoid assembly's body.
   
   NOTE: Shift solenoid A is Grounded by the solenoid assembly's case. If the solenoid assembly is still bolted to the transmission housing, you can Ground your multimeter's lead directly on the battery's negative (-) terminal.

4. 4

   Your multimeter should read 12-25 Ohms for the resistance value of shift solenoid A.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: Resistance was between 12-25 Ohms. This is the correct and expected test result and generally means that shift solenoid A is OK.

Although the shift solenoid A passed this test, there's still one more we need to do, which is to manually apply power to the solenoid and see if it clicks. Go to: TEST 2: Applying 12 V To Shift Solenoid A.

CASE 2: Resistance WAS NOT between 12-25 Ohms. Recheck your multimeter test connections and retest. If you still don't get the correct resistance, then shift solenoid A is bad and needs to be replaced.

TEST 2: Applying 12 V To Shift Solenoid A

There's a good chance that shift solenoid A passed TEST 1 with flying colors yet a trouble code P0735 continues to light the D4 light and/or check engine light on the instrument cluster.

So the next step, after measuring shift solenoid A's internal resistance, is to manually apply 12 Volts to terminal #2 and see if the solenoid clicks.

IMPORTANT: If you've removed the solenoid assembly to test it, you'll need to do one of two things: Bolt it back in place (on the transmission's case). Or Ground the solenoid assembly to the engine (or battery negative (-) post) with a battery jump cable (or this test won't work).

These are the test steps:

1. 1

   Unplug the lock up solenoid assembly from its electrical connector.
   
   NOTE: This test is done on the lock-up solenoid's connector AND NOT on the engine wiring harness' pigtail connector.

2. 2

   Apply 12 Volts to terminal #2, of the lock-up solenoid assembly's connector, using a jumper wire or a power probe.

3. 3

   You should hear an audible click when the 12 Volts are applied.
   
   Repeat this test as many times as you need to be certain of your test results.

Let's examine your test results:

CASE 1: An audible click was heard when applying 12 Volts. This test result tells you that the solenoid is opening and closing but (there's always a but) this doesn't mean the solenoid is good.

There's a chance that the solenoid is bad, even though it passed TEST 1 and this one (TEST 2). I have some suggestions that may help. For more details, go to: Solenoid Assembly Is Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting.

CASE 2: An audible click WAS NOT heard when applying 12 Volts. This test result tells you that shift solenoid A is bad and needs to be replaced.

Since shift solenoid A is part of the lock-up solenoid assembly, you'll need to replace the entire assembly to solve the issue.

TEST 3: TCC Lock-up Solenoid Resistance Test

The first test we'll perform on the TCC lock-up solenoid is a multimeter resistance test.

If the TCC lock-up solenoid's resistance isn't within specification, then you've found the cause of the P1735 diagnostic trouble code (DTC).

NOTE 1: The transmission and engine can get very hot. So it's best to perform this test with a cold engine/transmission.

NOTE 2: You can perform this test with the solenoid assembly off or on the vehicle.

These are the test steps:

1. 1

   Place your multimeter in Ohms mode.

2. 2

   Unplug the lock up solenoid assembly from its electrical connector.
   
   NOTE: This test is done on the lock-up solenoid's connector AND NOT on the engine wiring harness' pigtail connector.

3. 3

   Measure the resistance between terminal labeled with the #1, in the image viewer above, and the solenoid assembly's body.
   
   NOTE: The TCC lock-up solenoid is Grounded internally thru' the solenoid assembly's case. If the solenoid assembly is still bolted to the transmission housing, you can Ground your multimeter's lead directly on the battery's negative (-) terminal.

4. 4

   The multimeter should register 12-25 Ohms for the resistance value of TCC lock-up solenoid.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: Resistance was between 12-25 Ohms. This is the correct and expected test result and generally means that the TCC lock-up solenoid is OK.

Although the TCC lock-up solenoid passed this test, there's still one more we need to do. Which is to manually apply power to the solenoid and see if it clicks. Go to: TEST 4: Applying 12 V To The TCC Lock-Up Solenoid.

CASE 2: Resistance WAS NOT between 12-25 Ohms. Recheck your multimeter test connections and retest. If you still don't get the correct resistance, then the TCC lock-up solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced.

TEST 4: Applying 12 V To The TCC Lock-Up Solenoid

There's a good chance that the TCC lock-up solenoid's resistance is within specification (12-25 Ohms) but the transmission P1735 doesn't go away and the D4 and/or check engine light are blinking/lit on the instrument cluster.

So the next step, after measuring the TCC lock-up solenoid's internal resistance, is to manually apply 12 Volts to terminal #1, of the lock-up solenoid's connector and see if the solenoid clicks.

IMPORTANT: If you've removed the solenoid assembly to test it, you'll need to do one of two things: Bolt it back in place (on the transmission's case). Or Ground the solenoid assembly to the engine (or battery negative (-) post) with a battery jump cable (or this test won't work).

These are the test steps:

1. 1

   Unplug the lock up solenoid assembly from its electrical connector.
   
   NOTE: This test is done on the lock-up solenoid's connector AND NOT on the engine wiring harness' pigtail connector.

2. 2

   Apply 12 Volts to terminal #1, of the lock-up solenoid assembly's connector, using a jumper wire or a power probe.

3. 3

   You should hear an audible click when the 12 Volts are applied.
   
   Repeat this test as many times as you need to be certain of your test results.

Let's take a look at your test results:

CASE 1: An audible click was heard when applying 12 Volts. This test result tells you that the solenoid is opening and closing but (there's always a but) this doesn't mean the solenoid is good.

There's a chance that the solenoid is bad, even though it passed TEST 1 and this one (TEST 2). I have some suggestions that may help. For more details, go to: Solenoid Assembly Is Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting.

CASE 2: An audible click WAS NOT heard when applying 12 Volts. This test result tells you that the TCC lock-up solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced.

Since the TCC lock-up solenoid is part of the lock-up solenoid assembly, you'll need to replace the entire assembly to solve the issue.

Solenoid Assembly Is Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting

If you've tested and found either solenoid (TCC lock-up solenoid or shift solenoid A) good and your Honda's transmission isn't slipping yet a P0735 or P1735 keeps popping up, I want to suggest two things:

1. Remove the solenoid assembly's o-ring and clean the o-ring screens (see photo). Several people have reported that this has solved the issue.
2. Check the continuity of the wires between the solenoid assembly and the PCM. You'll need a wiring diagram of your specific Honda to accomplish this test.

Also, and especially after finding no faults in the wiring, there's a good chance that you'll have to replace the lock-up solenoid assembly to completely eliminate it as the source of the problem. I know this isn't something you want to hear, but in some cases this is a necessary thing.

Now, if your Honda's transmission is slipping, then replacing the shift solenoid assembly isn't gonna' help bring the transmission back to normal. Slippage is a direct result of internal damage to the friction discs or hard parts. The only way to solve a slippage issue is overhauling the transmission.

More Honda Accord Tutorials

You can find a pretty big list of Honda Accord tutorials in this index: Honda 2.2L, 2.3L Index Of Articles.

Here's a small sample of the tutorials you'll find in the index:

• How To Test The Radiator Fan Motor (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).
• How To Avoid A Blown Head Gasket (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).
• How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).
• How To Test For A Broken Timing Belt (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L).
• How To Test The Igniter, Ignition Coil Accord, Civic, CRV, and Odyssey (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).