TEST 3: Checking The Distributor Cap For Spark
The spark tests in TEST 1 have confirmed that some of the spark plugs aren't sparking. This issue usually occurs for one of two reasons:
- The non-sparking spark plug wires are bad.
- The distributor cap is bad.
To troubleshoot this, we'll perform a simple spark test on the distributor cap tower(s) of the non-sparking spark plug wire(s). If there are multiple non-sparking wires, we'll test one wire at a time.
This is what we're looking for:
- If you get spark from a distributor cap tower, the spark plug wire is bad.
- If there's no spark, the distributor cap tower is bad.
Let's get started:
- 1
Connect the spark plug wires to their respective spark plugs (if any are currently disconnected).
- 2
Disconnect the spark plug wire that did not spark from its tower on the distributor cap.
NOTE: If you have multiple non-sparking spark plug wires, we'll test them one at a time. For this step, disconnect only one wire from its distributor cap tower. In Step 8, we'll move on to the next one. - 3
Insert the spark tester into the distributor cap tower.
- 4
Connect the spark tester to the battery negative (-) terminal using a battery jump start cable.
NOTE: The battery jump start cable will also help you hold the spark tester in the distributor tower. - 5
Have a helper crank the engine.
CAUTION: The engine may start during this test. Take all necessary safety precautions and remain alert. - 6
You'll get 1 of 2 results: Spark or no spark.
- 7
Remove the spark tester from the tower and reconnect the spark plug wire.
- 8
Repeat the test for any other distributor cap towers connected to non-sparking spark plug wires from TEST 1.
Let's interpret your test result:
CASE 1: The spark tester sparked while inserted in the distributor cap tower. This is the correct and expected test result.
This indicates that the distributor cap tower is transmitting spark properly, and its non-sparking spark plug wire is bad. Replace all spark plug wires as a set.
CASE 2: The spark tester DID NOT spark while inserted in the distributor cap tower. This indicates an issue with the distributor cap tower (bad distributor cap).
Replace the distributor cap and rotor, then check non-sparking spark plug wires for spark by repeating TEST 1.
TEST 4: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting Power
So far, you have confirmed that:
- The spark plugs wires are not firing spark.
- The ignition coil is not firing spark.
Our objective now is to verify that the ignition coil is receiving 10-12 Volts DC when we turn the key to the ON position.
To do this, we're gonna check for this voltage directly on the ignition coil (+) terminal (see the image above).
Alright, let's get started:
- 1
Turn the key to the ON position but don't crank the engine.
- 2
Remove the distributor cap, if it isn't already off.
- 3
Set your multimeter to Volts DC mode.
- 4
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
- 5
With the red multimeter test lead, probe the terminal labeled with the (+) with the red multimeter test lead.
- 6
The multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC.
Let's interpret your test result:
CASE 1: The multimeter read 10 to 12 Volts DC. This is the correct and expected test result.
We need to proceed to the next step, which is to confirm that the ignition coil is receiving its activation signal. Go to: TEST 5: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting Its Activation Signal.
CASE 1: The multimeter DID NOT read 10 to 12 Volts DC. This usually tells you that the ignition switch is bad and not supplying power to the ignition coil.
Although it's beyond the scope of this tutorial, your next step is to troubleshoot this issue and resolve it. Once the ignition coil is getting power, it'll spark again.
TEST 5: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting Its Activation Signal
After having checked and having confirmed that that the ignition coil is getting power, the next step is to confirm that an activation signal is being delivered to the coil from the igniter.
To check for the presence of the ignition coil's activation signal, we'll use a 12 Volt automotive test light on the blue (BLU) wire of the ignition coil's 2-wire connector.
If you don't have an automotive 12 Volt test light, this is the one I recommend: Lisle 28400 Heavy Duty 12 Volt Test Light (at: amazon.com).
IMPORTANT: The igniter must remain connected to its electrical connector for this test to function.
OK, let's get started:
- 1
Connect the crocodile clip of the 12V test light to the battery positive (+) terminal.
- 2
Touch the test light's metal probe to the terminal labeled (-)
NOTE: Keep the probe in contact with the terminal throughout the next step. - 3
Have your helper crank up the engine as you observe the 12V test light.
- 4
The 12V test light should flash ON and OFF the whole time the engine is cranking and running.
Let's interpret your test result:
CASE 1: The 12 Volt test light flashed ON and OFF. This is the correct and expected test result and it lets you know that the igniter is functioning correctly and activating the ignition coil.
You can conclude that the ignition coil is bad and needs to be replaced if you have confirmed:
- All four spark plug wires are not sparking (TEST 1).
- The ignition coil's tower is not sparking (TEST 2).
- The ignition coil is receiving 10 to 12 Volts (TEST 4).
- The ignition coil is receiving an activation signal (this test section).
CASE 2: The 12 Volt test light DID NOT flash ON and OFF. This test result confirms that the reason the ignition coil is not sparking is because it's not receiving an activation signal from the igniter.
This activation signal is produce and supplied to the ignition coil by the igniter. Your next step is to test the igniter.
More 1.5L Toyota Tercel Tutorials
You can find a complete list of 1.5L Toyota Tercel tutorials and wiring diagrams in this index:
Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find there:
- How To Test The Starter Motor (1993-1998 1.5L Toyota Tercel).
- How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1991-1998 1.5L Toyota Tercel).
- How To Test Engine Compression (1991-1998 1.5L Toyota Tercel).
- How To Test The Igniter (1997-1998 1.5L Toyota Tercel).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!