TEST 3: Testing The G1 Signal
Now that you've confirmed that the distributor pickup coil is generating an NE signal, our next step is to check that it's generating a G1 signal.
The wire that that carries the G1 signal to the fuel injection computer is the red (RED) wire of the distributor's 4-wire connector.
These are the test steps:
- 1
Set your multimeter to Volts AC mode.
NOTE: Maintain the ignition coil disconnected from its 2-wire connector to prevent the engine from starting. - 2
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
- 3
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the red (RED) wire of the distributor's 4-wire connector.
The RED wire should correspond to female terminal 2 of the illustration above.
NOTE: The distributor must remain connected to its 4-wire connector to read the G1 signal. - 4
Crank the engine while you observe the multimeter from a safe distance.
- 5
The G1 signal should be around 0.5-1.0 Volts AC as the engine cranks.
NOTE: If the G1 coil is OK, its output voltage is going to fluctuate. You mainly want to see that you're getting a readable AC voltage (as the engine cranks) rather than an exact "1 Volts AC" number. If the AC voltage is 0, the G1 coil is not generating a signal.
Let's interpret your test result:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered the indicated AC Voltage. This is the correct and expected test result and confirms that the G1 signal generating portion of the pickup coil is OK.
Your next step is to check the presence of the G2 signal. Go to: TEST 4: Testing The G2 Signal.
CASE 2: The multimeter registered 0 AC Voltage. This lets you know that the G1 signal generating portion of the pickup coil is defective. Replace the distributor pickup coil.
NOTE: The pickup coil isn't sold separately -you'll need to purchase a new distributor).
TEST 4: Testing The G2 Signal
So far, your previous tests have confirmed:
- The distributor pickup coil is getting Ground (TEST 1).
- The distributor pickup coil is generating the NE signal (TEST 2).
- The distributor pickup coil is generating the G1 signal (TEST 3).
Our next step is to check that the pickup coil is generating the G2 signal.
The G2 signal is carried to the fuel injection computer by the blue (BLU) wire of the distributor's 4-wire connector.
Let's begin:
- 1
Set your multimeter to Volts AC mode.
NOTE: Maintain the ignition coil disconnected from its 2-wire connector to prevent the engine from starting. - 2
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
- 3
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the blue (BLU) wire of the distributor's 4-wire connector.
The BLU wire should correspond to female terminal 3 of the illustration above.
NOTE: The distributor must remain connected to its 4-wire connector to read the G2 signal. - 4
Crank the engine while you observe the multimeter from a safe distance.
- 5
The G2 signal should be around 0.5-1.0 Volts AC as the engine cranks.
NOTE: If the G2 coil is OK, its output voltage is going to fluctuate. You mainly want to see that you're getting a readable AC voltage (as the engine cranks) rather than an exact "1 Volts AC" number. If the AC voltage is 0, the G2 coil is not generating a signal.
Let's interpret your test result:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered the indicated AC Voltage. This is the correct and expected test result and confirms that the G2 signal generating portion of the pickup coil is OK.
You can conclude that the pickup coil is good and not causing the no-start, no-spark issue with your Toyota if you have checked and verified:
- The distributor pickup coil is getting Ground (TEST 1).
- The distributor pickup coil is generating the NE signal (TEST 2).
- The distributor pickup coil is generating the G1 signal (TEST 3).
- The distributor pickup coil is generating the G2 signal (this tests section).
CASE 2: The multimeter registered 0 AC Voltage. This lets you know that the G2 signal generating portion of the pickup coil is defective. Replace the distributor pickup coil.
NOTE: The pickup coil isn't sold separately -you'll need to purchase a new distributor).
More 3.0L Toyota Camry Tutorials
You can find a complete list of 3.0L Toyota Camry tutorials and wiring diagrams in this index:
Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find there:
- How To Test Engine Compression (1992-2006 3.0L V6 Toyota Camry).
- How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1992-2006 3.0L V6 Toyota Camry).
- How To Test The TPS (1997-2001 3.0L V6 Toyota Camry).
- How To Test The MAF Sensor (1997-2001 3.0L V6 Toyota Camry).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!